🔩 Control board failure Repair Guide for Electrolux EFME627UTT
💡 Don’t panic! Control board failure on your Electrolux EFME627UTT dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
🔌
🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power completely
- Locate your home’s electrical panel (breaker box) and identify the circuit breaker labeled for the dryer, typically a double-pole 30-amp breaker.
- Flip the dryer’s circuit breaker to the OFF position—both toggles should move together if it’s a double-pole breaker.
- Use a non-contact voltage tester at the dryer’s outlet to verify power is off before proceeding.
- Move to the dryer and pull it away from the wall approximately 3 feet to access the rear panel and power connection.
- Locate the power cord connection point at the back of the dryer, positioned at the upper center section approximately 6 inches down from the top edge.
- Identify the metal terminal block cover—a rectangular metal plate measuring approximately 4 inches wide by 3 inches tall, secured with one Phillips-head screw.
- Remove the terminal block cover screw using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise.
- Set the cover and screw aside in a container to prevent loss.
- Observe the terminal block showing 3 or 4 wire connections: two hot wires (typically black and red), one neutral wire (white), and one ground wire (green or bare copper).
- Use a non-contact voltage tester directly on each terminal to confirm zero voltage reading—the tester should not light up or beep.
- Photograph the wire configuration with your phone for reference during reassembly.
- Using a flat-head screwdriver or 5/16-inch nut driver, loosen each terminal screw by turning counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until wires release freely.
- Pull each wire straight out from its terminal, starting with the ground wire, then neutral, then the two hot wires.
- Remove the power cord completely through the strain relief bracket and set it aside on a clean surface.
- Verify the dryer is completely isolated from electrical power—no wires should remain connected to the terminal block.
🔧
🛠️ Step 2: Remove control panel to access control board
- Locate the two Phillips-head screws at the top rear corners of the dryer’s control panel housing, positioned approximately 1 inch from each edge and 1/2 inch down from the top surface.
- Remove both screws completely using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise, and set them aside in a container.
- Stand in front of the dryer and grip the control panel from underneath at both the left and right edges where it meets the dryer top.
- Pull the bottom edge of the control panel toward you approximately 2-3 inches until it pivots forward on its upper hinge points.
- Tilt the control panel forward until it rests at roughly a 45-degree angle, exposing the back side of the control assembly.
- Identify the main wire harness connector attached to the control board – it’s a white rectangular connector approximately 2 inches wide with a gray release tab on top, located on the right side of the control board.
- Press down firmly on the gray release tab with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the control board until it separates completely.
- Locate the secondary smaller connector with 4-6 individual wires (typically including green and white wires) positioned to the left of the main harness connector.
- Squeeze the locking tabs on both sides of this smaller connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Lift the control panel assembly completely away from the dryer by tilting it upward and pulling it toward you, clearing it from the upper hinge slots.
- Place the control panel face-down on a clean, padded work surface with the control board now fully accessible and facing upward for inspection or replacement.
🔍
⚙️ Step 3: Inspect board for visible damage: burnt components, melted areas, corrosion
- Position the main control board so the component side (the side with electronic parts soldered to it) faces you directly under your work light.
- Start your inspection at the top left corner of the board, examining a 1-inch square section at a time, moving systematically left to right, then down row by row.
- Look for burnt resistors, which appear as small rectangular components (typically 1/8 to 1/4 inch long) that should be tan, blue, or green, but when damaged show black charring or white/gray ash on their bodies.
- Examine all capacitors (cylindrical components standing upright, ranging from 1/4 inch to 1 inch tall) for bulging tops, which appear as domed or split metal caps instead of flat tops, or brown residue at their base indicating leakage.
- Inspect all integrated circuit chips (black rectangular components with multiple metal legs) for cracks in the plastic body or discoloration indicating overheating.
- Check the relay switches (clear or black plastic cubes measuring approximately 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch x 1/2 inch tall) for melted plastic, particularly around the terminal pins at the base.
- Examine all solder joints (small silver mounds where component legs attach to the board) for dark brown or black discoloration instead of shiny silver, indicating burnt connections.
- Look across the green circuit board surface itself for darkened areas, bubbling, or charred spots that appear black or dark brown instead of the normal green color.
- Check for white, blue, or green crusty deposits anywhere on the board indicating corrosion, particularly near wire connectors.
- If you identify any damage matching these descriptions, note the specific location by measuring its distance from the top edge and left edge of the board in inches—you’ll need this information for ordering a replacement board (part number 137437600).
🔌
🔩 Step 4: Check power supply to board with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to VAC (AC voltage) and select the 250V or higher range.
- Locate the main control board, positioned behind the upper front control panel approximately 2 inches down from the top edge of the dryer.
- Identify the white wire harness connector on the left side of the control board (approximately 3 inches from the left edge), which contains 4 wires coming from the power supply.
- Insert the red multimeter probe into the leftmost terminal slot of the connector (this is the L1 line wire, typically black or red insulation).
- Insert the black multimeter probe into the third terminal slot from the left (this is the neutral wire, typically white insulation).
- Read the display—you should see 120VAC ±10 volts (acceptable range: 108-132VAC).
- Move the red probe to the second terminal slot from the left (this is the L2 line wire, typically black or red insulation) while keeping the black probe in the neutral position.
- Read the display again—you should see 120VAC ±10 volts.
- Move the red probe back to the leftmost terminal (L1) and move the black probe to the second terminal (L2) to measure across both hot legs.
- Read the display—you should see 240VAC ±10 volts (acceptable range: 216-264VAC).
- If any reading falls outside these ranges or shows 0 volts, the issue is with your home’s electrical supply or the power cord connection, not the control board.
- If all three readings fall within acceptable ranges, this confirms proper power delivery to the control board, and you can proceed to test board outputs.
- Set your multimeter back to the off position and remove both probes from the connector.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: Test voltage at board input terminals
- Set your digital multimeter to AC voltage mode, selecting the 250V AC range or higher.
- Insert the black (negative) probe into the COM port on your multimeter and the red (positive) probe into the voltage measurement port marked “V” or “VΩ”.
- Locate the main control board mounted on the rear panel of the dryer, approximately 8 inches from the top and centered horizontally behind the control console.
- Identify the wire harness connector entering the control board from the bottom—this is a white plastic connector block with 4 terminals, containing wires colored black, white, red, and green.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the white wire terminal (neutral) on the connector block while it remains plugged into the board.
- Touch the red multimeter probe to the black wire terminal (L1 hot wire) on the same connector block.
- Read the voltage display—you should see 120V AC (acceptable range: 115-125V AC).
- Keep the black probe on the white wire terminal and move the red probe to the red wire terminal (L2 hot wire).
- Read the voltage display—you should again see 120V AC (acceptable range: 115-125V AC).
- Move the black probe to the black wire terminal (L1) and touch the red probe to the red wire terminal (L2).
- Read the voltage display—you should see 240V AC (acceptable range: 230-250V AC), representing the combined voltage between both hot legs.
- If all three readings fall within acceptable ranges, the electrical supply to the board is correct; proceed to Step 6.
- If any reading is zero or significantly below range, turn off the circuit breaker and inspect all wire connections between the terminal block and the control board for looseness, corrosion, or damage.
🔧
âś… Step 6: Look for error codes or diagnostic indicators
- Stand directly in front of the dryer and locate the control panel display screen, positioned on the upper-right section of the door frame, approximately 5 inches from the right edge.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and observe the digital display for 3 seconds to see if any error codes appear as alphanumeric combinations (like E11, E64, or PF).
- Write down any error codes displayed, noting both the letter and number sequence exactly as shown on the screen.
- If no codes appear during normal display, press and hold both the DELAY START and SIGNAL buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
- Release both buttons when the display shows “t01” or begins scrolling through test codes.
- Press the START/PAUSE button repeatedly to cycle through diagnostic test numbers (t01 through t12), watching the display change with each press.
- Stop at test t02 (error code history) and observe any stored fault codes that appear on the display, which will show as two-character combinations cycling every 2 seconds.
- Record each error code visible during the t02 cycle, as up to 5 previous error codes can be stored in memory.
- Press POWER button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation mode.
- Open the dryer door and locate the thermal fuse link on the rear panel blower housing, accessible by looking through the drum opening toward the back-left corner, approximately 8 inches from the top edge.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the thermal fuse for a visible break in the metal strip visible through the white ceramic housing—an intact fuse shows an unbroken metallic connection.
- Check the lint screen housing opening (located inside the door opening at the top-center) for the yellow diagnostic sticker showing common error code definitions for quick reference.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for loose wire connections or damaged connectors
- Locate the main wire harness bundle running along the right side panel of the dryer cabinet, approximately 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Starting at the control board (top rear of unit), trace each wire connector with your flashlight to identify all connection points in this sequence: door switch (front right, 3 inches below control panel), moisture sensor bars (inside drum opening), thermal fuse (rear center exhaust housing), heating element terminals (lower rear right), and motor (bottom center).
- Grip the first connector housing at the door switch firmly between thumb and forefinger, then pull straight back with 5-10 pounds of force to disconnect it.
- Examine the female terminals inside the connector housing – look for dark brown or black discoloration indicating heat damage, or green/white corrosion buildup.
- Check each male pin terminal for bending (pins should be perpendicular to the mounting surface), burn marks, or looseness by gently wiggling each pin – any movement indicates a failed connection.
- Inspect the wire insulation within 2 inches of each connector for melting, cracks, or exposed copper strands.
- Push the connector back together until you hear and feel a distinct click – the connector should require 8-12 pounds of pull force to separate after proper seating.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining 6 major connectors identified in step 2.
- Examine the 2-wire spade terminals on the heating element – they should have 0.25-inch wide metal blades fully inserted into the female connectors with no visible gaps.
- Tug each spade connector with 3-5 pounds of force – properly seated terminals will not pull free.
- Check the 3-wire motor connector (white, black, and orange wires) located at bottom center – this connector has a locking tab that must be depressed 0.25 inches to release.
- Replace any connectors showing burn marks, corrosion, or bent terminals.
🧪
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board shows damage or fails diagnostic tests, replacement needed
- Order replacement control board part number 137006050 or 5304519445 (verify your specific board’s part number printed on white label on board itself, typically in center or upper right corner).
- Locate the wire harness connections on the control board – count 5 individual connectors: one large 16-pin white connector on left side, two smaller 6-pin connectors in center, one 4-pin connector on right side, and one ground wire with ring terminal at bottom right.
- Press down on the locking tab of the 16-pin white connector (located at top of connector housing) while pulling straight out – requires 3-5 pounds of force until it releases with audible click.
- Disconnect the two 6-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs inward approximately 1/4 inch while pulling away from board.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on right side by pulling straight up – this connector has no locking tab.
- Use Phillips-head screwdriver #2 to remove single screw securing ground wire ring terminal at bottom right corner of board.
- Remove four Phillips-head screws (one in each corner of control board) securing board to mounting bracket – screws are approximately 3/4 inch from each edge.
- Lift control board straight up and away from mounting posts, then slide out from behind any retaining clips on left and right edges.
- Position new control board onto four mounting posts, ensuring alignment with screw holes in all four corners.
- Install four corner mounting screws and tighten until snug – approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of torque (firm finger-tight with screwdriver).
- Reconnect ground wire to bottom right screw terminal and tighten securely.
- Reconnect all wire harnesses in reverse order – each connector will seat with distinct click when fully inserted and properly locked.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Document all wire connections before removal
- Retrieve your smartphone or digital camera and position yourself where you can clearly see the wire harness connections on the blower motor assembly, located at the bottom rear of the drum compartment.
- Locate the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug approximately 2 inches wide with 6 wires entering it—positioned 3 inches above the blower motor housing on the right side.
- Take a close-up photograph of this connector showing the wire colors in their exact positions from left to right: white, blue, black, red, orange, and green ground wire.
- Find the thermal fuse wire connector, a smaller white plug with 2 white wires, mounted 4 inches to the left of the main harness on the rear bulkhead.
- Photograph this thermal fuse connector, ensuring both wire terminals are visible in the frame.
- Locate the moisture sensor connector—a gray 2-pin plug with one white wire and one brown wire—positioned on the left side panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Photograph this sensor connection with enough detail to see which wire attaches to which terminal.
- Use a permanent marker to draw a small arrow on each wire connector body pointing toward its mating connector to indicate proper orientation.
- Number each connector pair using masking tape and a marker: write “1” on both the main harness plug and socket, “2” on both thermal fuse terminals, and “3” on both moisture sensor connectors.
- Create one final overview photograph showing all three connection points in a single frame for reference during reassembly.
- Verify your photographs are in focus by zooming in on your camera screen—you should clearly read the numbers you wrote on the masking tape labels.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the back panel of the dryer drum housing, approximately 18 inches from the top and 8 inches from the right side edge.
- Take a photo of all wire connections on the control board with your phone, capturing the exact position of each connector and wire color arrangement.
- Identify the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug with 14 pins located on the left side of the control board.
- Press the locking tab on the main harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with steady, firm pressure until it releases (requires approximately 5 pounds of force).
- Locate the smaller 6-pin connector with blue, white, black, red, orange, and brown wires positioned at the bottom center of the control board.
- Squeeze the release tabs on both sides of the 6-pin connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Find the thermal fuse connector—a 2-wire white connector with one white wire and one black wire—located at the top right corner of the control board.
- Pull this connector straight off the board terminals (no locking tab present).
- Locate four Phillips-head mounting screws securing the control board to the mounting bracket, positioned at each corner of the board approximately 1 inch from the edges.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove all four mounting screws by turning counterclockwise, placing screws in a container for reuse.
- Grasp the control board by its edges and lift upward, then pull forward to clear the mounting bracket slots.
- Place the old control board circuit-side-up on a clean, dry surface away from your work area—you’ll reference wire positions during installation.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new control board and reconnect all wiring
- Position the new control board (part number 137006090) with the component side facing outward and align the four mounting holes with the posts on the rear panel.
- Push the board straight onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the rear panel, approximately 1/8 inch from the metal surface.
- Insert the four 1/4-inch hex head screws through the mounting holes at each corner of the control board.
- Tighten each screw using a 1/4-inch nut driver in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—stop when you feel resistance increase.
- Locate the main power connector with 6 wires (two white, one black, one red, one orange, one blue) and align it with the white 6-pin socket on the lower left of the control board.
- Push the connector straight into the socket until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connector housing will be flush with the socket face.
- Connect the door switch harness (2-wire white connector) to the socket labeled “DSW” on the upper right of the board, pushing until it clicks.
- Attach the moisture sensor connector (2-wire black connector) to the socket labeled “MS” at the center top of the board.
- Connect the thermistor harness (single white 2-wire connector) to the socket labeled “THM” on the right side of the board.
- Plug the drive motor connector (4-wire blue connector) into the socket labeled “MTR” on the lower right corner.
- Verify each connector by gently tugging—none should pull free without pressing the release tab.
- Success indicators: all five connectors are fully seated with no gaps, wires are not pinched between the board and panel, and no loose connectors remain disconnected.
🔌
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 2: Remove control panel to access control board
- Locate the two Phillips-head screws at the top rear corners of the dryer’s control panel housing, positioned approximately 1 inch from each edge and 1/2 inch down from the top surface.
- Remove both screws completely using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise, and set them aside in a container.
- Stand in front of the dryer and grip the control panel from underneath at both the left and right edges where it meets the dryer top.
- Pull the bottom edge of the control panel toward you approximately 2-3 inches until it pivots forward on its upper hinge points.
- Tilt the control panel forward until it rests at roughly a 45-degree angle, exposing the back side of the control assembly.
- Identify the main wire harness connector attached to the control board – it’s a white rectangular connector approximately 2 inches wide with a gray release tab on top, located on the right side of the control board.
- Press down firmly on the gray release tab with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the control board until it separates completely.
- Locate the secondary smaller connector with 4-6 individual wires (typically including green and white wires) positioned to the left of the main harness connector.
- Squeeze the locking tabs on both sides of this smaller connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Lift the control panel assembly completely away from the dryer by tilting it upward and pulling it toward you, clearing it from the upper hinge slots.
- Place the control panel face-down on a clean, padded work surface with the control board now fully accessible and facing upward for inspection or replacement.
🔍
⚙️ Step 3: Inspect board for visible damage: burnt components, melted areas, corrosion
- Position the main control board so the component side (the side with electronic parts soldered to it) faces you directly under your work light.
- Start your inspection at the top left corner of the board, examining a 1-inch square section at a time, moving systematically left to right, then down row by row.
- Look for burnt resistors, which appear as small rectangular components (typically 1/8 to 1/4 inch long) that should be tan, blue, or green, but when damaged show black charring or white/gray ash on their bodies.
- Examine all capacitors (cylindrical components standing upright, ranging from 1/4 inch to 1 inch tall) for bulging tops, which appear as domed or split metal caps instead of flat tops, or brown residue at their base indicating leakage.
- Inspect all integrated circuit chips (black rectangular components with multiple metal legs) for cracks in the plastic body or discoloration indicating overheating.
- Check the relay switches (clear or black plastic cubes measuring approximately 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch x 1/2 inch tall) for melted plastic, particularly around the terminal pins at the base.
- Examine all solder joints (small silver mounds where component legs attach to the board) for dark brown or black discoloration instead of shiny silver, indicating burnt connections.
- Look across the green circuit board surface itself for darkened areas, bubbling, or charred spots that appear black or dark brown instead of the normal green color.
- Check for white, blue, or green crusty deposits anywhere on the board indicating corrosion, particularly near wire connectors.
- If you identify any damage matching these descriptions, note the specific location by measuring its distance from the top edge and left edge of the board in inches—you’ll need this information for ordering a replacement board (part number 137437600).
🔌
🔩 Step 4: Check power supply to board with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to VAC (AC voltage) and select the 250V or higher range.
- Locate the main control board, positioned behind the upper front control panel approximately 2 inches down from the top edge of the dryer.
- Identify the white wire harness connector on the left side of the control board (approximately 3 inches from the left edge), which contains 4 wires coming from the power supply.
- Insert the red multimeter probe into the leftmost terminal slot of the connector (this is the L1 line wire, typically black or red insulation).
- Insert the black multimeter probe into the third terminal slot from the left (this is the neutral wire, typically white insulation).
- Read the display—you should see 120VAC ±10 volts (acceptable range: 108-132VAC).
- Move the red probe to the second terminal slot from the left (this is the L2 line wire, typically black or red insulation) while keeping the black probe in the neutral position.
- Read the display again—you should see 120VAC ±10 volts.
- Move the red probe back to the leftmost terminal (L1) and move the black probe to the second terminal (L2) to measure across both hot legs.
- Read the display—you should see 240VAC ±10 volts (acceptable range: 216-264VAC).
- If any reading falls outside these ranges or shows 0 volts, the issue is with your home’s electrical supply or the power cord connection, not the control board.
- If all three readings fall within acceptable ranges, this confirms proper power delivery to the control board, and you can proceed to test board outputs.
- Set your multimeter back to the off position and remove both probes from the connector.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: Test voltage at board input terminals
- Set your digital multimeter to AC voltage mode, selecting the 250V AC range or higher.
- Insert the black (negative) probe into the COM port on your multimeter and the red (positive) probe into the voltage measurement port marked “V” or “VΩ”.
- Locate the main control board mounted on the rear panel of the dryer, approximately 8 inches from the top and centered horizontally behind the control console.
- Identify the wire harness connector entering the control board from the bottom—this is a white plastic connector block with 4 terminals, containing wires colored black, white, red, and green.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the white wire terminal (neutral) on the connector block while it remains plugged into the board.
- Touch the red multimeter probe to the black wire terminal (L1 hot wire) on the same connector block.
- Read the voltage display—you should see 120V AC (acceptable range: 115-125V AC).
- Keep the black probe on the white wire terminal and move the red probe to the red wire terminal (L2 hot wire).
- Read the voltage display—you should again see 120V AC (acceptable range: 115-125V AC).
- Move the black probe to the black wire terminal (L1) and touch the red probe to the red wire terminal (L2).
- Read the voltage display—you should see 240V AC (acceptable range: 230-250V AC), representing the combined voltage between both hot legs.
- If all three readings fall within acceptable ranges, the electrical supply to the board is correct; proceed to Step 6.
- If any reading is zero or significantly below range, turn off the circuit breaker and inspect all wire connections between the terminal block and the control board for looseness, corrosion, or damage.
🔧
âś… Step 6: Look for error codes or diagnostic indicators
- Stand directly in front of the dryer and locate the control panel display screen, positioned on the upper-right section of the door frame, approximately 5 inches from the right edge.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and observe the digital display for 3 seconds to see if any error codes appear as alphanumeric combinations (like E11, E64, or PF).
- Write down any error codes displayed, noting both the letter and number sequence exactly as shown on the screen.
- If no codes appear during normal display, press and hold both the DELAY START and SIGNAL buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
- Release both buttons when the display shows “t01” or begins scrolling through test codes.
- Press the START/PAUSE button repeatedly to cycle through diagnostic test numbers (t01 through t12), watching the display change with each press.
- Stop at test t02 (error code history) and observe any stored fault codes that appear on the display, which will show as two-character combinations cycling every 2 seconds.
- Record each error code visible during the t02 cycle, as up to 5 previous error codes can be stored in memory.
- Press POWER button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation mode.
- Open the dryer door and locate the thermal fuse link on the rear panel blower housing, accessible by looking through the drum opening toward the back-left corner, approximately 8 inches from the top edge.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the thermal fuse for a visible break in the metal strip visible through the white ceramic housing—an intact fuse shows an unbroken metallic connection.
- Check the lint screen housing opening (located inside the door opening at the top-center) for the yellow diagnostic sticker showing common error code definitions for quick reference.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for loose wire connections or damaged connectors
- Locate the main wire harness bundle running along the right side panel of the dryer cabinet, approximately 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Starting at the control board (top rear of unit), trace each wire connector with your flashlight to identify all connection points in this sequence: door switch (front right, 3 inches below control panel), moisture sensor bars (inside drum opening), thermal fuse (rear center exhaust housing), heating element terminals (lower rear right), and motor (bottom center).
- Grip the first connector housing at the door switch firmly between thumb and forefinger, then pull straight back with 5-10 pounds of force to disconnect it.
- Examine the female terminals inside the connector housing – look for dark brown or black discoloration indicating heat damage, or green/white corrosion buildup.
- Check each male pin terminal for bending (pins should be perpendicular to the mounting surface), burn marks, or looseness by gently wiggling each pin – any movement indicates a failed connection.
- Inspect the wire insulation within 2 inches of each connector for melting, cracks, or exposed copper strands.
- Push the connector back together until you hear and feel a distinct click – the connector should require 8-12 pounds of pull force to separate after proper seating.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining 6 major connectors identified in step 2.
- Examine the 2-wire spade terminals on the heating element – they should have 0.25-inch wide metal blades fully inserted into the female connectors with no visible gaps.
- Tug each spade connector with 3-5 pounds of force – properly seated terminals will not pull free.
- Check the 3-wire motor connector (white, black, and orange wires) located at bottom center – this connector has a locking tab that must be depressed 0.25 inches to release.
- Replace any connectors showing burn marks, corrosion, or bent terminals.
🧪
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board shows damage or fails diagnostic tests, replacement needed
- Order replacement control board part number 137006050 or 5304519445 (verify your specific board’s part number printed on white label on board itself, typically in center or upper right corner).
- Locate the wire harness connections on the control board – count 5 individual connectors: one large 16-pin white connector on left side, two smaller 6-pin connectors in center, one 4-pin connector on right side, and one ground wire with ring terminal at bottom right.
- Press down on the locking tab of the 16-pin white connector (located at top of connector housing) while pulling straight out – requires 3-5 pounds of force until it releases with audible click.
- Disconnect the two 6-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs inward approximately 1/4 inch while pulling away from board.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on right side by pulling straight up – this connector has no locking tab.
- Use Phillips-head screwdriver #2 to remove single screw securing ground wire ring terminal at bottom right corner of board.
- Remove four Phillips-head screws (one in each corner of control board) securing board to mounting bracket – screws are approximately 3/4 inch from each edge.
- Lift control board straight up and away from mounting posts, then slide out from behind any retaining clips on left and right edges.
- Position new control board onto four mounting posts, ensuring alignment with screw holes in all four corners.
- Install four corner mounting screws and tighten until snug – approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of torque (firm finger-tight with screwdriver).
- Reconnect ground wire to bottom right screw terminal and tighten securely.
- Reconnect all wire harnesses in reverse order – each connector will seat with distinct click when fully inserted and properly locked.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Document all wire connections before removal
- Retrieve your smartphone or digital camera and position yourself where you can clearly see the wire harness connections on the blower motor assembly, located at the bottom rear of the drum compartment.
- Locate the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug approximately 2 inches wide with 6 wires entering it—positioned 3 inches above the blower motor housing on the right side.
- Take a close-up photograph of this connector showing the wire colors in their exact positions from left to right: white, blue, black, red, orange, and green ground wire.
- Find the thermal fuse wire connector, a smaller white plug with 2 white wires, mounted 4 inches to the left of the main harness on the rear bulkhead.
- Photograph this thermal fuse connector, ensuring both wire terminals are visible in the frame.
- Locate the moisture sensor connector—a gray 2-pin plug with one white wire and one brown wire—positioned on the left side panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Photograph this sensor connection with enough detail to see which wire attaches to which terminal.
- Use a permanent marker to draw a small arrow on each wire connector body pointing toward its mating connector to indicate proper orientation.
- Number each connector pair using masking tape and a marker: write “1” on both the main harness plug and socket, “2” on both thermal fuse terminals, and “3” on both moisture sensor connectors.
- Create one final overview photograph showing all three connection points in a single frame for reference during reassembly.
- Verify your photographs are in focus by zooming in on your camera screen—you should clearly read the numbers you wrote on the masking tape labels.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the back panel of the dryer drum housing, approximately 18 inches from the top and 8 inches from the right side edge.
- Take a photo of all wire connections on the control board with your phone, capturing the exact position of each connector and wire color arrangement.
- Identify the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug with 14 pins located on the left side of the control board.
- Press the locking tab on the main harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with steady, firm pressure until it releases (requires approximately 5 pounds of force).
- Locate the smaller 6-pin connector with blue, white, black, red, orange, and brown wires positioned at the bottom center of the control board.
- Squeeze the release tabs on both sides of the 6-pin connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Find the thermal fuse connector—a 2-wire white connector with one white wire and one black wire—located at the top right corner of the control board.
- Pull this connector straight off the board terminals (no locking tab present).
- Locate four Phillips-head mounting screws securing the control board to the mounting bracket, positioned at each corner of the board approximately 1 inch from the edges.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove all four mounting screws by turning counterclockwise, placing screws in a container for reuse.
- Grasp the control board by its edges and lift upward, then pull forward to clear the mounting bracket slots.
- Place the old control board circuit-side-up on a clean, dry surface away from your work area—you’ll reference wire positions during installation.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new control board and reconnect all wiring
- Position the new control board (part number 137006090) with the component side facing outward and align the four mounting holes with the posts on the rear panel.
- Push the board straight onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the rear panel, approximately 1/8 inch from the metal surface.
- Insert the four 1/4-inch hex head screws through the mounting holes at each corner of the control board.
- Tighten each screw using a 1/4-inch nut driver in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—stop when you feel resistance increase.
- Locate the main power connector with 6 wires (two white, one black, one red, one orange, one blue) and align it with the white 6-pin socket on the lower left of the control board.
- Push the connector straight into the socket until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connector housing will be flush with the socket face.
- Connect the door switch harness (2-wire white connector) to the socket labeled “DSW” on the upper right of the board, pushing until it clicks.
- Attach the moisture sensor connector (2-wire black connector) to the socket labeled “MS” at the center top of the board.
- Connect the thermistor harness (single white 2-wire connector) to the socket labeled “THM” on the right side of the board.
- Plug the drive motor connector (4-wire blue connector) into the socket labeled “MTR” on the lower right corner.
- Verify each connector by gently tugging—none should pull free without pressing the release tab.
- Success indicators: all five connectors are fully seated with no gaps, wires are not pinched between the board and panel, and no loose connectors remain disconnected.
🔌
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🔩 Step 4: Check power supply to board with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to VAC (AC voltage) and select the 250V or higher range.
- Locate the main control board, positioned behind the upper front control panel approximately 2 inches down from the top edge of the dryer.
- Identify the white wire harness connector on the left side of the control board (approximately 3 inches from the left edge), which contains 4 wires coming from the power supply.
- Insert the red multimeter probe into the leftmost terminal slot of the connector (this is the L1 line wire, typically black or red insulation).
- Insert the black multimeter probe into the third terminal slot from the left (this is the neutral wire, typically white insulation).
- Read the display—you should see 120VAC ±10 volts (acceptable range: 108-132VAC).
- Move the red probe to the second terminal slot from the left (this is the L2 line wire, typically black or red insulation) while keeping the black probe in the neutral position.
- Read the display again—you should see 120VAC ±10 volts.
- Move the red probe back to the leftmost terminal (L1) and move the black probe to the second terminal (L2) to measure across both hot legs.
- Read the display—you should see 240VAC ±10 volts (acceptable range: 216-264VAC).
- If any reading falls outside these ranges or shows 0 volts, the issue is with your home’s electrical supply or the power cord connection, not the control board.
- If all three readings fall within acceptable ranges, this confirms proper power delivery to the control board, and you can proceed to test board outputs.
- Set your multimeter back to the off position and remove both probes from the connector.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: Test voltage at board input terminals
- Set your digital multimeter to AC voltage mode, selecting the 250V AC range or higher.
- Insert the black (negative) probe into the COM port on your multimeter and the red (positive) probe into the voltage measurement port marked “V” or “VΩ”.
- Locate the main control board mounted on the rear panel of the dryer, approximately 8 inches from the top and centered horizontally behind the control console.
- Identify the wire harness connector entering the control board from the bottom—this is a white plastic connector block with 4 terminals, containing wires colored black, white, red, and green.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the white wire terminal (neutral) on the connector block while it remains plugged into the board.
- Touch the red multimeter probe to the black wire terminal (L1 hot wire) on the same connector block.
- Read the voltage display—you should see 120V AC (acceptable range: 115-125V AC).
- Keep the black probe on the white wire terminal and move the red probe to the red wire terminal (L2 hot wire).
- Read the voltage display—you should again see 120V AC (acceptable range: 115-125V AC).
- Move the black probe to the black wire terminal (L1) and touch the red probe to the red wire terminal (L2).
- Read the voltage display—you should see 240V AC (acceptable range: 230-250V AC), representing the combined voltage between both hot legs.
- If all three readings fall within acceptable ranges, the electrical supply to the board is correct; proceed to Step 6.
- If any reading is zero or significantly below range, turn off the circuit breaker and inspect all wire connections between the terminal block and the control board for looseness, corrosion, or damage.
🔧
âś… Step 6: Look for error codes or diagnostic indicators
- Stand directly in front of the dryer and locate the control panel display screen, positioned on the upper-right section of the door frame, approximately 5 inches from the right edge.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and observe the digital display for 3 seconds to see if any error codes appear as alphanumeric combinations (like E11, E64, or PF).
- Write down any error codes displayed, noting both the letter and number sequence exactly as shown on the screen.
- If no codes appear during normal display, press and hold both the DELAY START and SIGNAL buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
- Release both buttons when the display shows “t01” or begins scrolling through test codes.
- Press the START/PAUSE button repeatedly to cycle through diagnostic test numbers (t01 through t12), watching the display change with each press.
- Stop at test t02 (error code history) and observe any stored fault codes that appear on the display, which will show as two-character combinations cycling every 2 seconds.
- Record each error code visible during the t02 cycle, as up to 5 previous error codes can be stored in memory.
- Press POWER button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation mode.
- Open the dryer door and locate the thermal fuse link on the rear panel blower housing, accessible by looking through the drum opening toward the back-left corner, approximately 8 inches from the top edge.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the thermal fuse for a visible break in the metal strip visible through the white ceramic housing—an intact fuse shows an unbroken metallic connection.
- Check the lint screen housing opening (located inside the door opening at the top-center) for the yellow diagnostic sticker showing common error code definitions for quick reference.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for loose wire connections or damaged connectors
- Locate the main wire harness bundle running along the right side panel of the dryer cabinet, approximately 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Starting at the control board (top rear of unit), trace each wire connector with your flashlight to identify all connection points in this sequence: door switch (front right, 3 inches below control panel), moisture sensor bars (inside drum opening), thermal fuse (rear center exhaust housing), heating element terminals (lower rear right), and motor (bottom center).
- Grip the first connector housing at the door switch firmly between thumb and forefinger, then pull straight back with 5-10 pounds of force to disconnect it.
- Examine the female terminals inside the connector housing – look for dark brown or black discoloration indicating heat damage, or green/white corrosion buildup.
- Check each male pin terminal for bending (pins should be perpendicular to the mounting surface), burn marks, or looseness by gently wiggling each pin – any movement indicates a failed connection.
- Inspect the wire insulation within 2 inches of each connector for melting, cracks, or exposed copper strands.
- Push the connector back together until you hear and feel a distinct click – the connector should require 8-12 pounds of pull force to separate after proper seating.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining 6 major connectors identified in step 2.
- Examine the 2-wire spade terminals on the heating element – they should have 0.25-inch wide metal blades fully inserted into the female connectors with no visible gaps.
- Tug each spade connector with 3-5 pounds of force – properly seated terminals will not pull free.
- Check the 3-wire motor connector (white, black, and orange wires) located at bottom center – this connector has a locking tab that must be depressed 0.25 inches to release.
- Replace any connectors showing burn marks, corrosion, or bent terminals.
🧪
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board shows damage or fails diagnostic tests, replacement needed
- Order replacement control board part number 137006050 or 5304519445 (verify your specific board’s part number printed on white label on board itself, typically in center or upper right corner).
- Locate the wire harness connections on the control board – count 5 individual connectors: one large 16-pin white connector on left side, two smaller 6-pin connectors in center, one 4-pin connector on right side, and one ground wire with ring terminal at bottom right.
- Press down on the locking tab of the 16-pin white connector (located at top of connector housing) while pulling straight out – requires 3-5 pounds of force until it releases with audible click.
- Disconnect the two 6-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs inward approximately 1/4 inch while pulling away from board.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on right side by pulling straight up – this connector has no locking tab.
- Use Phillips-head screwdriver #2 to remove single screw securing ground wire ring terminal at bottom right corner of board.
- Remove four Phillips-head screws (one in each corner of control board) securing board to mounting bracket – screws are approximately 3/4 inch from each edge.
- Lift control board straight up and away from mounting posts, then slide out from behind any retaining clips on left and right edges.
- Position new control board onto four mounting posts, ensuring alignment with screw holes in all four corners.
- Install four corner mounting screws and tighten until snug – approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of torque (firm finger-tight with screwdriver).
- Reconnect ground wire to bottom right screw terminal and tighten securely.
- Reconnect all wire harnesses in reverse order – each connector will seat with distinct click when fully inserted and properly locked.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Document all wire connections before removal
- Retrieve your smartphone or digital camera and position yourself where you can clearly see the wire harness connections on the blower motor assembly, located at the bottom rear of the drum compartment.
- Locate the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug approximately 2 inches wide with 6 wires entering it—positioned 3 inches above the blower motor housing on the right side.
- Take a close-up photograph of this connector showing the wire colors in their exact positions from left to right: white, blue, black, red, orange, and green ground wire.
- Find the thermal fuse wire connector, a smaller white plug with 2 white wires, mounted 4 inches to the left of the main harness on the rear bulkhead.
- Photograph this thermal fuse connector, ensuring both wire terminals are visible in the frame.
- Locate the moisture sensor connector—a gray 2-pin plug with one white wire and one brown wire—positioned on the left side panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Photograph this sensor connection with enough detail to see which wire attaches to which terminal.
- Use a permanent marker to draw a small arrow on each wire connector body pointing toward its mating connector to indicate proper orientation.
- Number each connector pair using masking tape and a marker: write “1” on both the main harness plug and socket, “2” on both thermal fuse terminals, and “3” on both moisture sensor connectors.
- Create one final overview photograph showing all three connection points in a single frame for reference during reassembly.
- Verify your photographs are in focus by zooming in on your camera screen—you should clearly read the numbers you wrote on the masking tape labels.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the back panel of the dryer drum housing, approximately 18 inches from the top and 8 inches from the right side edge.
- Take a photo of all wire connections on the control board with your phone, capturing the exact position of each connector and wire color arrangement.
- Identify the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug with 14 pins located on the left side of the control board.
- Press the locking tab on the main harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with steady, firm pressure until it releases (requires approximately 5 pounds of force).
- Locate the smaller 6-pin connector with blue, white, black, red, orange, and brown wires positioned at the bottom center of the control board.
- Squeeze the release tabs on both sides of the 6-pin connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Find the thermal fuse connector—a 2-wire white connector with one white wire and one black wire—located at the top right corner of the control board.
- Pull this connector straight off the board terminals (no locking tab present).
- Locate four Phillips-head mounting screws securing the control board to the mounting bracket, positioned at each corner of the board approximately 1 inch from the edges.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove all four mounting screws by turning counterclockwise, placing screws in a container for reuse.
- Grasp the control board by its edges and lift upward, then pull forward to clear the mounting bracket slots.
- Place the old control board circuit-side-up on a clean, dry surface away from your work area—you’ll reference wire positions during installation.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new control board and reconnect all wiring
- Position the new control board (part number 137006090) with the component side facing outward and align the four mounting holes with the posts on the rear panel.
- Push the board straight onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the rear panel, approximately 1/8 inch from the metal surface.
- Insert the four 1/4-inch hex head screws through the mounting holes at each corner of the control board.
- Tighten each screw using a 1/4-inch nut driver in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—stop when you feel resistance increase.
- Locate the main power connector with 6 wires (two white, one black, one red, one orange, one blue) and align it with the white 6-pin socket on the lower left of the control board.
- Push the connector straight into the socket until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connector housing will be flush with the socket face.
- Connect the door switch harness (2-wire white connector) to the socket labeled “DSW” on the upper right of the board, pushing until it clicks.
- Attach the moisture sensor connector (2-wire black connector) to the socket labeled “MS” at the center top of the board.
- Connect the thermistor harness (single white 2-wire connector) to the socket labeled “THM” on the right side of the board.
- Plug the drive motor connector (4-wire blue connector) into the socket labeled “MTR” on the lower right corner.
- Verify each connector by gently tugging—none should pull free without pressing the release tab.
- Success indicators: all five connectors are fully seated with no gaps, wires are not pinched between the board and panel, and no loose connectors remain disconnected.
🔌
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
âś… Step 6: Look for error codes or diagnostic indicators
- Stand directly in front of the dryer and locate the control panel display screen, positioned on the upper-right section of the door frame, approximately 5 inches from the right edge.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and observe the digital display for 3 seconds to see if any error codes appear as alphanumeric combinations (like E11, E64, or PF).
- Write down any error codes displayed, noting both the letter and number sequence exactly as shown on the screen.
- If no codes appear during normal display, press and hold both the DELAY START and SIGNAL buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
- Release both buttons when the display shows “t01” or begins scrolling through test codes.
- Press the START/PAUSE button repeatedly to cycle through diagnostic test numbers (t01 through t12), watching the display change with each press.
- Stop at test t02 (error code history) and observe any stored fault codes that appear on the display, which will show as two-character combinations cycling every 2 seconds.
- Record each error code visible during the t02 cycle, as up to 5 previous error codes can be stored in memory.
- Press POWER button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation mode.
- Open the dryer door and locate the thermal fuse link on the rear panel blower housing, accessible by looking through the drum opening toward the back-left corner, approximately 8 inches from the top edge.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the thermal fuse for a visible break in the metal strip visible through the white ceramic housing—an intact fuse shows an unbroken metallic connection.
- Check the lint screen housing opening (located inside the door opening at the top-center) for the yellow diagnostic sticker showing common error code definitions for quick reference.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for loose wire connections or damaged connectors
- Locate the main wire harness bundle running along the right side panel of the dryer cabinet, approximately 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Starting at the control board (top rear of unit), trace each wire connector with your flashlight to identify all connection points in this sequence: door switch (front right, 3 inches below control panel), moisture sensor bars (inside drum opening), thermal fuse (rear center exhaust housing), heating element terminals (lower rear right), and motor (bottom center).
- Grip the first connector housing at the door switch firmly between thumb and forefinger, then pull straight back with 5-10 pounds of force to disconnect it.
- Examine the female terminals inside the connector housing – look for dark brown or black discoloration indicating heat damage, or green/white corrosion buildup.
- Check each male pin terminal for bending (pins should be perpendicular to the mounting surface), burn marks, or looseness by gently wiggling each pin – any movement indicates a failed connection.
- Inspect the wire insulation within 2 inches of each connector for melting, cracks, or exposed copper strands.
- Push the connector back together until you hear and feel a distinct click – the connector should require 8-12 pounds of pull force to separate after proper seating.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining 6 major connectors identified in step 2.
- Examine the 2-wire spade terminals on the heating element – they should have 0.25-inch wide metal blades fully inserted into the female connectors with no visible gaps.
- Tug each spade connector with 3-5 pounds of force – properly seated terminals will not pull free.
- Check the 3-wire motor connector (white, black, and orange wires) located at bottom center – this connector has a locking tab that must be depressed 0.25 inches to release.
- Replace any connectors showing burn marks, corrosion, or bent terminals.
🧪
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board shows damage or fails diagnostic tests, replacement needed
- Order replacement control board part number 137006050 or 5304519445 (verify your specific board’s part number printed on white label on board itself, typically in center or upper right corner).
- Locate the wire harness connections on the control board – count 5 individual connectors: one large 16-pin white connector on left side, two smaller 6-pin connectors in center, one 4-pin connector on right side, and one ground wire with ring terminal at bottom right.
- Press down on the locking tab of the 16-pin white connector (located at top of connector housing) while pulling straight out – requires 3-5 pounds of force until it releases with audible click.
- Disconnect the two 6-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs inward approximately 1/4 inch while pulling away from board.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on right side by pulling straight up – this connector has no locking tab.
- Use Phillips-head screwdriver #2 to remove single screw securing ground wire ring terminal at bottom right corner of board.
- Remove four Phillips-head screws (one in each corner of control board) securing board to mounting bracket – screws are approximately 3/4 inch from each edge.
- Lift control board straight up and away from mounting posts, then slide out from behind any retaining clips on left and right edges.
- Position new control board onto four mounting posts, ensuring alignment with screw holes in all four corners.
- Install four corner mounting screws and tighten until snug – approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of torque (firm finger-tight with screwdriver).
- Reconnect ground wire to bottom right screw terminal and tighten securely.
- Reconnect all wire harnesses in reverse order – each connector will seat with distinct click when fully inserted and properly locked.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Document all wire connections before removal
- Retrieve your smartphone or digital camera and position yourself where you can clearly see the wire harness connections on the blower motor assembly, located at the bottom rear of the drum compartment.
- Locate the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug approximately 2 inches wide with 6 wires entering it—positioned 3 inches above the blower motor housing on the right side.
- Take a close-up photograph of this connector showing the wire colors in their exact positions from left to right: white, blue, black, red, orange, and green ground wire.
- Find the thermal fuse wire connector, a smaller white plug with 2 white wires, mounted 4 inches to the left of the main harness on the rear bulkhead.
- Photograph this thermal fuse connector, ensuring both wire terminals are visible in the frame.
- Locate the moisture sensor connector—a gray 2-pin plug with one white wire and one brown wire—positioned on the left side panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Photograph this sensor connection with enough detail to see which wire attaches to which terminal.
- Use a permanent marker to draw a small arrow on each wire connector body pointing toward its mating connector to indicate proper orientation.
- Number each connector pair using masking tape and a marker: write “1” on both the main harness plug and socket, “2” on both thermal fuse terminals, and “3” on both moisture sensor connectors.
- Create one final overview photograph showing all three connection points in a single frame for reference during reassembly.
- Verify your photographs are in focus by zooming in on your camera screen—you should clearly read the numbers you wrote on the masking tape labels.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the back panel of the dryer drum housing, approximately 18 inches from the top and 8 inches from the right side edge.
- Take a photo of all wire connections on the control board with your phone, capturing the exact position of each connector and wire color arrangement.
- Identify the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug with 14 pins located on the left side of the control board.
- Press the locking tab on the main harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with steady, firm pressure until it releases (requires approximately 5 pounds of force).
- Locate the smaller 6-pin connector with blue, white, black, red, orange, and brown wires positioned at the bottom center of the control board.
- Squeeze the release tabs on both sides of the 6-pin connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Find the thermal fuse connector—a 2-wire white connector with one white wire and one black wire—located at the top right corner of the control board.
- Pull this connector straight off the board terminals (no locking tab present).
- Locate four Phillips-head mounting screws securing the control board to the mounting bracket, positioned at each corner of the board approximately 1 inch from the edges.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove all four mounting screws by turning counterclockwise, placing screws in a container for reuse.
- Grasp the control board by its edges and lift upward, then pull forward to clear the mounting bracket slots.
- Place the old control board circuit-side-up on a clean, dry surface away from your work area—you’ll reference wire positions during installation.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new control board and reconnect all wiring
- Position the new control board (part number 137006090) with the component side facing outward and align the four mounting holes with the posts on the rear panel.
- Push the board straight onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the rear panel, approximately 1/8 inch from the metal surface.
- Insert the four 1/4-inch hex head screws through the mounting holes at each corner of the control board.
- Tighten each screw using a 1/4-inch nut driver in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—stop when you feel resistance increase.
- Locate the main power connector with 6 wires (two white, one black, one red, one orange, one blue) and align it with the white 6-pin socket on the lower left of the control board.
- Push the connector straight into the socket until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connector housing will be flush with the socket face.
- Connect the door switch harness (2-wire white connector) to the socket labeled “DSW” on the upper right of the board, pushing until it clicks.
- Attach the moisture sensor connector (2-wire black connector) to the socket labeled “MS” at the center top of the board.
- Connect the thermistor harness (single white 2-wire connector) to the socket labeled “THM” on the right side of the board.
- Plug the drive motor connector (4-wire blue connector) into the socket labeled “MTR” on the lower right corner.
- Verify each connector by gently tugging—none should pull free without pressing the release tab.
- Success indicators: all five connectors are fully seated with no gaps, wires are not pinched between the board and panel, and no loose connectors remain disconnected.
🔌
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board shows damage or fails diagnostic tests, replacement needed
- Order replacement control board part number 137006050 or 5304519445 (verify your specific board’s part number printed on white label on board itself, typically in center or upper right corner).
- Locate the wire harness connections on the control board – count 5 individual connectors: one large 16-pin white connector on left side, two smaller 6-pin connectors in center, one 4-pin connector on right side, and one ground wire with ring terminal at bottom right.
- Press down on the locking tab of the 16-pin white connector (located at top of connector housing) while pulling straight out – requires 3-5 pounds of force until it releases with audible click.
- Disconnect the two 6-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs inward approximately 1/4 inch while pulling away from board.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on right side by pulling straight up – this connector has no locking tab.
- Use Phillips-head screwdriver #2 to remove single screw securing ground wire ring terminal at bottom right corner of board.
- Remove four Phillips-head screws (one in each corner of control board) securing board to mounting bracket – screws are approximately 3/4 inch from each edge.
- Lift control board straight up and away from mounting posts, then slide out from behind any retaining clips on left and right edges.
- Position new control board onto four mounting posts, ensuring alignment with screw holes in all four corners.
- Install four corner mounting screws and tighten until snug – approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of torque (firm finger-tight with screwdriver).
- Reconnect ground wire to bottom right screw terminal and tighten securely.
- Reconnect all wire harnesses in reverse order – each connector will seat with distinct click when fully inserted and properly locked.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Document all wire connections before removal
- Retrieve your smartphone or digital camera and position yourself where you can clearly see the wire harness connections on the blower motor assembly, located at the bottom rear of the drum compartment.
- Locate the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug approximately 2 inches wide with 6 wires entering it—positioned 3 inches above the blower motor housing on the right side.
- Take a close-up photograph of this connector showing the wire colors in their exact positions from left to right: white, blue, black, red, orange, and green ground wire.
- Find the thermal fuse wire connector, a smaller white plug with 2 white wires, mounted 4 inches to the left of the main harness on the rear bulkhead.
- Photograph this thermal fuse connector, ensuring both wire terminals are visible in the frame.
- Locate the moisture sensor connector—a gray 2-pin plug with one white wire and one brown wire—positioned on the left side panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Photograph this sensor connection with enough detail to see which wire attaches to which terminal.
- Use a permanent marker to draw a small arrow on each wire connector body pointing toward its mating connector to indicate proper orientation.
- Number each connector pair using masking tape and a marker: write “1” on both the main harness plug and socket, “2” on both thermal fuse terminals, and “3” on both moisture sensor connectors.
- Create one final overview photograph showing all three connection points in a single frame for reference during reassembly.
- Verify your photographs are in focus by zooming in on your camera screen—you should clearly read the numbers you wrote on the masking tape labels.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the back panel of the dryer drum housing, approximately 18 inches from the top and 8 inches from the right side edge.
- Take a photo of all wire connections on the control board with your phone, capturing the exact position of each connector and wire color arrangement.
- Identify the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug with 14 pins located on the left side of the control board.
- Press the locking tab on the main harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with steady, firm pressure until it releases (requires approximately 5 pounds of force).
- Locate the smaller 6-pin connector with blue, white, black, red, orange, and brown wires positioned at the bottom center of the control board.
- Squeeze the release tabs on both sides of the 6-pin connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Find the thermal fuse connector—a 2-wire white connector with one white wire and one black wire—located at the top right corner of the control board.
- Pull this connector straight off the board terminals (no locking tab present).
- Locate four Phillips-head mounting screws securing the control board to the mounting bracket, positioned at each corner of the board approximately 1 inch from the edges.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove all four mounting screws by turning counterclockwise, placing screws in a container for reuse.
- Grasp the control board by its edges and lift upward, then pull forward to clear the mounting bracket slots.
- Place the old control board circuit-side-up on a clean, dry surface away from your work area—you’ll reference wire positions during installation.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new control board and reconnect all wiring
- Position the new control board (part number 137006090) with the component side facing outward and align the four mounting holes with the posts on the rear panel.
- Push the board straight onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the rear panel, approximately 1/8 inch from the metal surface.
- Insert the four 1/4-inch hex head screws through the mounting holes at each corner of the control board.
- Tighten each screw using a 1/4-inch nut driver in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—stop when you feel resistance increase.
- Locate the main power connector with 6 wires (two white, one black, one red, one orange, one blue) and align it with the white 6-pin socket on the lower left of the control board.
- Push the connector straight into the socket until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connector housing will be flush with the socket face.
- Connect the door switch harness (2-wire white connector) to the socket labeled “DSW” on the upper right of the board, pushing until it clicks.
- Attach the moisture sensor connector (2-wire black connector) to the socket labeled “MS” at the center top of the board.
- Connect the thermistor harness (single white 2-wire connector) to the socket labeled “THM” on the right side of the board.
- Plug the drive motor connector (4-wire blue connector) into the socket labeled “MTR” on the lower right corner.
- Verify each connector by gently tugging—none should pull free without pressing the release tab.
- Success indicators: all five connectors are fully seated with no gaps, wires are not pinched between the board and panel, and no loose connectors remain disconnected.
🔌
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the back panel of the dryer drum housing, approximately 18 inches from the top and 8 inches from the right side edge.
- Take a photo of all wire connections on the control board with your phone, capturing the exact position of each connector and wire color arrangement.
- Identify the main wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug with 14 pins located on the left side of the control board.
- Press the locking tab on the main harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with steady, firm pressure until it releases (requires approximately 5 pounds of force).
- Locate the smaller 6-pin connector with blue, white, black, red, orange, and brown wires positioned at the bottom center of the control board.
- Squeeze the release tabs on both sides of the 6-pin connector simultaneously and pull straight out to disconnect.
- Find the thermal fuse connector—a 2-wire white connector with one white wire and one black wire—located at the top right corner of the control board.
- Pull this connector straight off the board terminals (no locking tab present).
- Locate four Phillips-head mounting screws securing the control board to the mounting bracket, positioned at each corner of the board approximately 1 inch from the edges.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove all four mounting screws by turning counterclockwise, placing screws in a container for reuse.
- Grasp the control board by its edges and lift upward, then pull forward to clear the mounting bracket slots.
- Place the old control board circuit-side-up on a clean, dry surface away from your work area—you’ll reference wire positions during installation.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new control board and reconnect all wiring
- Position the new control board (part number 137006090) with the component side facing outward and align the four mounting holes with the posts on the rear panel.
- Push the board straight onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the rear panel, approximately 1/8 inch from the metal surface.
- Insert the four 1/4-inch hex head screws through the mounting holes at each corner of the control board.
- Tighten each screw using a 1/4-inch nut driver in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—stop when you feel resistance increase.
- Locate the main power connector with 6 wires (two white, one black, one red, one orange, one blue) and align it with the white 6-pin socket on the lower left of the control board.
- Push the connector straight into the socket until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connector housing will be flush with the socket face.
- Connect the door switch harness (2-wire white connector) to the socket labeled “DSW” on the upper right of the board, pushing until it clicks.
- Attach the moisture sensor connector (2-wire black connector) to the socket labeled “MS” at the center top of the board.
- Connect the thermistor harness (single white 2-wire connector) to the socket labeled “THM” on the right side of the board.
- Plug the drive motor connector (4-wire blue connector) into the socket labeled “MTR” on the lower right corner.
- Verify each connector by gently tugging—none should pull free without pressing the release tab.
- Success indicators: all five connectors are fully seated with no gaps, wires are not pinched between the board and panel, and no loose connectors remain disconnected.
🔌
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 12: Restore power and test all functions
- Grip the dryer’s sides and push it straight back into its installation space, stopping when the rear panel is 2-3 inches from the wall to allow clearance for the vent hose.
- Walk behind the dryer and reconnect the 4-inch diameter exhaust vent hose to the dryer’s vent outlet (located center-rear, approximately 8 inches from the floor).
- Tighten the vent hose clamp clockwise using a 5/16-inch nut driver until the clamp is snug against the vent outlet pipe.
- Locate the 240-volt power cord you previously disconnected and align the 4-prong plug with the wall outlet (the L-shaped ground prong fits only one way).
- Push the plug firmly into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush with no gaps visible.
- Push the dryer the remaining distance until it sits in its final position against the wall.
- Open the dryer door and press the control panel power button (top-left of the control panel).
- Select the “Normal Dry” cycle by pressing the cycle selector button until “Normal Dry” illuminates on the display.
- Press the start button (large round button on the right side of the control panel) and listen for the dryer drum to begin rotating within 2-3 seconds—you should hear the motor engage and feel warm air within 30 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 3 minutes, then press the pause button to stop the cycle.
- Press and hold the “My Favorite” button for 3 seconds to access the diagnostic mode—the display will show “t01” indicating the temperature sensor test.
- Press the start button again, then immediately stop it—all control panel lights should illuminate sequentially, confirming proper electronic function.
- Close the dryer door and run a 10-minute test cycle with no load to verify heating, drum rotation, and proper shutdown occur without error codes displaying.
đź›’ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- Manufacturer Authorized W10111606 Dryer Control Board OEM P/N WPW10111606 W10050520 3978981 3978994 – Facctory Direct Warranty
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.