🔩 Thermistor out of range Repair Guide for Electrolux EFME517STT
💡 Don’t panic! Thermistor out of range on your Electrolux EFME517STT dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
- Thermistor
- Multimeter
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
🔌
🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power
- Locate your home’s electrical panel (breaker box) and identify the circuit breaker labeled for the dryer, typically a double-pole 30-amp breaker.
- Switch the dryer circuit breaker to the OFF position by pushing the toggle firmly to the right or down (depending on your panel orientation).
- Use a voltage tester pen or non-contact voltage detector on the breaker to confirm it’s off – the tester should not light up or beep.
- Move to the dryer location and pull the unit approximately 2-3 feet away from the wall to access the rear panel.
- Look at the lower center section of the dryer’s back panel where the power cord enters – you’ll see either a 3-prong or 4-prong power cord connected to a terminal block.
- For 4-prong cords: Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to loosen the four terminal screws (red wire, black wire, white wire, and green/bare ground wire) by turning counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until wires release.
- For 3-prong cords: Remove the three terminal screws using the same 5/16-inch tool – two outer hot wires (typically red and black) and one center neutral wire (white).
- Remove the strain relief clamp at the cord entry point by loosening its two screws with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise 3-4 rotations.
- Pull the power cord completely out through the opening in the back panel.
- Use your voltage tester directly on the exposed terminal block screws – touch the tester probe to each terminal screw connection point. No voltage should register (no light, no beep).
- Coil the power cord and set it aside on a clean surface for reinstallation after repairs are complete.
🔍
🛠️ Step 2: Locate thermistor
- Stand at the back of the dryer and look at the blower housing assembly (the large metal housing on the left side, approximately 18 inches in diameter).
- Trace the metal ductwork from the drum opening to where it connects to the blower housing – this is the exhaust duct transition piece.
- Identify the felt seal ring where the drum meets the blower housing inlet (approximately 12 inches from the top of the dryer cabinet).
- Look directly below this junction point, on the lower portion of the blower housing assembly, approximately 8-10 inches down from the drum opening.
- Locate a small white or cream-colored plastic component mounted to the blower housing – this is the thermistor assembly (part number 134792700).
- The thermistor appears as a cylindrical sensor, approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch in diameter, with a white plastic mounting clip securing it to the housing.
- Follow the two attached wires (typically both white or one white and one gray) from the thermistor sensor – these lead to a wire harness connector approximately 6-8 inches away.
- Find the connector plug where the thermistor wires terminate – it’s a small white rectangular connector with 2 pins, usually clipped to a bracket or resting against the blower housing.
- Note the thermistor’s exact mounting position – it inserts into a circular opening in the blower housing and sits flush against the metal surface.
- Verify you’ve located the correct component by confirming: cylindrical sensor body, white plastic mounting clip, two-wire connection, and direct contact with the blower housing metal surface.
🧪
⚙️ Step 3: Measure resistance
- Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms or the next highest range available on your meter.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the meter reads 0.0 to 0.5 ohms, confirming the meter functions correctly.
- Locate the heating element terminals on the element you removed in Step 2—they appear as two threaded metal posts approximately 1 inch apart, protruding from the white ceramic block at the element’s center.
- Touch one multimeter probe to the left terminal post and the other probe to the right terminal post, maintaining firm contact for 3-5 seconds.
- Read the display: a properly functioning heating element will show 8 to 12 ohms for this model.
- If the meter displays “OL”, “1”, or infinity symbol, the element has an open circuit and requires replacement.
- If the meter displays 0.0 to 0.3 ohms, the element has an internal short and requires replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to the highest ohms setting (typically 2000K or 20M).
- Touch one probe to either terminal post and touch the other probe to the metal mounting bracket on the element’s edge.
- Read the display: the meter must show “OL”, “1”, or infinity, indicating no continuity between the element and ground.
- If the meter shows any specific number (indicating continuity to ground), the element insulation has failed and the element requires replacement (part number 137035500).
- Repeat the ground test in step 9-10 with the probe touching the other terminal post.
- Write down all three readings (terminal-to-terminal, terminal-to-ground left side, terminal-to-ground right side) for your records.
- Turn off the multimeter to preserve battery life.
🔧
🔩 Step 4: Compare to specifications
- Place the removed heating element on a clean, flat work surface with good lighting where you can perform measurements and tests.
- Locate the metal mounting bracket on the heating element—this rectangular frame surrounds the coil assembly and contains two threaded terminals protruding from one side.
- Measure the distance between the center points of the two threaded terminals using a ruler or calipers—the correct measurement is 2.75 inches (70mm) center-to-center.
- Examine the heating element coil itself, which loops in an oval pattern—count the number of complete loops, which should be 4 full coils for this model.
- Check the wattage rating stamped on the metal bracket near the terminal area—it should read “5500W” or “5.5KW” along with “240V”.
- Set your multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting on the lowest scale that reads up to 2000 ohms.
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the heating element—the reading should display between 10.5 and 12.5 ohms, with 11.5 ohms being optimal.
- If your multimeter shows “OL” (overload), “1”, or infinity symbol, the element has an open circuit and is defective—proceed with replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to continuity test mode (usually marked with a sound wave symbol).
- Touch one probe to either terminal and the other probe to the metal mounting bracket frame—the multimeter should NOT beep or show continuity.
- If the multimeter beeps, the element has an internal short to ground and is defective—proceed with replacement.
- Verify the thermal fuse (small white cylindrical component attached to the bracket with two wire leads) shows continuity by touching both multimeter probes to its wire terminals—it should beep, indicating the fuse is intact.
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đź“‹ Step 5: If out of range, replace
- Order replacement thermistor part number 134587700 or 5303937189 (both compatible with EFME517STT).
- Verify the new thermistor matches the old one by comparing the wire connector—both should have a white 2-pin connector approximately 0.5 inches wide.
- Pull the old thermistor’s white wire connector straight back from the control board terminal located on the left side of the dryer’s rear panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Locate the metal clip securing the thermistor wire along the blower housing—this clip sits 4 inches below the connector point on the control board.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the clip open and slide the wire free from the routing channel.
- Reach inside the blower housing through the access point on the right side (where you previously removed the blower wheel) and grasp the thermistor sensor at the end of the wire.
- Pull the thermistor and its grommet straight out through the 0.75-inch diameter mounting hole in the blower housing wall.
- Insert the new thermistor sensor through the same mounting hole until the rubber grommet seats flush against the housing wall—you’ll feel it snap into place.
- Route the new wire along the same path as the old wire, following the blower housing edge upward toward the control board.
- Press the wire into the metal retention clip until it clicks and holds the wire securely against the housing.
- Push the white 2-pin connector onto the control board terminal until you hear a distinct click—the connector should not pull free when tugged lightly.
- Use your multimeter set to resistance (Ω) to verify the new thermistor reads between 10,000-12,000 ohms at room temperature (68-72°F), confirming proper installation.
âś…
âś… Step 6: Install new thermistor
- Locate the new thermistor (part number 134587700 or 131719600) – it’s a small cylindrical sensor approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and 1.5 inches long with two metal prongs on one end and two wires on the other.
- Position the new thermistor into the mounting clip on the blower housing, located at the air inlet duct approximately 3 inches below the lint filter housing on the right side.
- Push the thermistor body firmly into the metal retaining clip until you hear a distinct snap – the clip will hold the sensor body snugly against the housing surface.
- Verify the thermistor sits flush against the metal surface with no air gap – the metal prongs should make direct contact with the housing for accurate temperature reading.
- Route the two attached wires (typically white or gray insulation) toward the wire harness connection point located 8 inches below the thermistor mounting position.
- Locate the matching wire connector – it’s a white plastic 2-pin connector approximately 3/4 inch long attached to the main wire harness.
- Align the thermistor’s male connector pins with the female wire harness connector, matching the wider tab on one side of the connector housing.
- Push the connectors together until you feel and hear a definitive click – the locking tab will audibly engage.
- Tug gently on both sides of the connection point – a properly seated connector will not separate with moderate pulling force.
- Secure any excess wire length using the existing wire tie clips along the blower housing – press the wire into the plastic retaining clips spaced every 4-5 inches along the housing edge.
- Confirm the thermistor wires do not contact the blower wheel, which sits 2 inches to the left of the mounting position – rotate the blower wheel by hand one full revolution to verify clearance.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test temperature operation
- Plug the dryer’s power cord back into the 240V wall outlet and push the dryer back to within 6 inches of its final position, leaving enough room to access the rear panel if needed.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, dry bath towels inside the drum to simulate a typical load weight of approximately 8-10 pounds.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Press the power button on the control panel at the top center of the dryer door.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” setting, which is typically at the 12 o’clock position.
- Press the “Temperature” button repeatedly until “High Heat” displays on the digital screen.
- Press the “Start/Pause” button, located on the right side of the control panel, to begin the cycle.
- Allow the dryer to run for exactly 10 minutes while monitoring the drum temperature.
- After 10 minutes, press the “Start/Pause” button to stop the cycle, then open the door and carefully touch the towels – they should feel warm to hot (approximately 140-160°F).
- Close the door, turn the cycle selector to “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting, and press “Start/Pause” again.
- Run this no-heat cycle for 5 minutes, then stop and check the towels – they should feel room temperature or only slightly warm from tumbling friction.
- Turn the cycle selector to “Delicate” or “Low Heat” setting and run for 8 minutes.
- Stop the cycle and check the towels again – they should feel moderately warm (approximately 110-130°F), noticeably cooler than the high heat test.
- If all three temperature settings produce the expected heat levels, push the dryer fully against the wall and reconnect the vent hose using a flathead screwdriver to tighten the 4-inch diameter hose clamp.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 2: Locate thermistor
- Stand at the back of the dryer and look at the blower housing assembly (the large metal housing on the left side, approximately 18 inches in diameter).
- Trace the metal ductwork from the drum opening to where it connects to the blower housing – this is the exhaust duct transition piece.
- Identify the felt seal ring where the drum meets the blower housing inlet (approximately 12 inches from the top of the dryer cabinet).
- Look directly below this junction point, on the lower portion of the blower housing assembly, approximately 8-10 inches down from the drum opening.
- Locate a small white or cream-colored plastic component mounted to the blower housing – this is the thermistor assembly (part number 134792700).
- The thermistor appears as a cylindrical sensor, approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch in diameter, with a white plastic mounting clip securing it to the housing.
- Follow the two attached wires (typically both white or one white and one gray) from the thermistor sensor – these lead to a wire harness connector approximately 6-8 inches away.
- Find the connector plug where the thermistor wires terminate – it’s a small white rectangular connector with 2 pins, usually clipped to a bracket or resting against the blower housing.
- Note the thermistor’s exact mounting position – it inserts into a circular opening in the blower housing and sits flush against the metal surface.
- Verify you’ve located the correct component by confirming: cylindrical sensor body, white plastic mounting clip, two-wire connection, and direct contact with the blower housing metal surface.
🧪
⚙️ Step 3: Measure resistance
- Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms or the next highest range available on your meter.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the meter reads 0.0 to 0.5 ohms, confirming the meter functions correctly.
- Locate the heating element terminals on the element you removed in Step 2—they appear as two threaded metal posts approximately 1 inch apart, protruding from the white ceramic block at the element’s center.
- Touch one multimeter probe to the left terminal post and the other probe to the right terminal post, maintaining firm contact for 3-5 seconds.
- Read the display: a properly functioning heating element will show 8 to 12 ohms for this model.
- If the meter displays “OL”, “1”, or infinity symbol, the element has an open circuit and requires replacement.
- If the meter displays 0.0 to 0.3 ohms, the element has an internal short and requires replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to the highest ohms setting (typically 2000K or 20M).
- Touch one probe to either terminal post and touch the other probe to the metal mounting bracket on the element’s edge.
- Read the display: the meter must show “OL”, “1”, or infinity, indicating no continuity between the element and ground.
- If the meter shows any specific number (indicating continuity to ground), the element insulation has failed and the element requires replacement (part number 137035500).
- Repeat the ground test in step 9-10 with the probe touching the other terminal post.
- Write down all three readings (terminal-to-terminal, terminal-to-ground left side, terminal-to-ground right side) for your records.
- Turn off the multimeter to preserve battery life.
🔧
🔩 Step 4: Compare to specifications
- Place the removed heating element on a clean, flat work surface with good lighting where you can perform measurements and tests.
- Locate the metal mounting bracket on the heating element—this rectangular frame surrounds the coil assembly and contains two threaded terminals protruding from one side.
- Measure the distance between the center points of the two threaded terminals using a ruler or calipers—the correct measurement is 2.75 inches (70mm) center-to-center.
- Examine the heating element coil itself, which loops in an oval pattern—count the number of complete loops, which should be 4 full coils for this model.
- Check the wattage rating stamped on the metal bracket near the terminal area—it should read “5500W” or “5.5KW” along with “240V”.
- Set your multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting on the lowest scale that reads up to 2000 ohms.
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the heating element—the reading should display between 10.5 and 12.5 ohms, with 11.5 ohms being optimal.
- If your multimeter shows “OL” (overload), “1”, or infinity symbol, the element has an open circuit and is defective—proceed with replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to continuity test mode (usually marked with a sound wave symbol).
- Touch one probe to either terminal and the other probe to the metal mounting bracket frame—the multimeter should NOT beep or show continuity.
- If the multimeter beeps, the element has an internal short to ground and is defective—proceed with replacement.
- Verify the thermal fuse (small white cylindrical component attached to the bracket with two wire leads) shows continuity by touching both multimeter probes to its wire terminals—it should beep, indicating the fuse is intact.
âś…
đź“‹ Step 5: If out of range, replace
- Order replacement thermistor part number 134587700 or 5303937189 (both compatible with EFME517STT).
- Verify the new thermistor matches the old one by comparing the wire connector—both should have a white 2-pin connector approximately 0.5 inches wide.
- Pull the old thermistor’s white wire connector straight back from the control board terminal located on the left side of the dryer’s rear panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Locate the metal clip securing the thermistor wire along the blower housing—this clip sits 4 inches below the connector point on the control board.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the clip open and slide the wire free from the routing channel.
- Reach inside the blower housing through the access point on the right side (where you previously removed the blower wheel) and grasp the thermistor sensor at the end of the wire.
- Pull the thermistor and its grommet straight out through the 0.75-inch diameter mounting hole in the blower housing wall.
- Insert the new thermistor sensor through the same mounting hole until the rubber grommet seats flush against the housing wall—you’ll feel it snap into place.
- Route the new wire along the same path as the old wire, following the blower housing edge upward toward the control board.
- Press the wire into the metal retention clip until it clicks and holds the wire securely against the housing.
- Push the white 2-pin connector onto the control board terminal until you hear a distinct click—the connector should not pull free when tugged lightly.
- Use your multimeter set to resistance (Ω) to verify the new thermistor reads between 10,000-12,000 ohms at room temperature (68-72°F), confirming proper installation.
âś…
âś… Step 6: Install new thermistor
- Locate the new thermistor (part number 134587700 or 131719600) – it’s a small cylindrical sensor approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and 1.5 inches long with two metal prongs on one end and two wires on the other.
- Position the new thermistor into the mounting clip on the blower housing, located at the air inlet duct approximately 3 inches below the lint filter housing on the right side.
- Push the thermistor body firmly into the metal retaining clip until you hear a distinct snap – the clip will hold the sensor body snugly against the housing surface.
- Verify the thermistor sits flush against the metal surface with no air gap – the metal prongs should make direct contact with the housing for accurate temperature reading.
- Route the two attached wires (typically white or gray insulation) toward the wire harness connection point located 8 inches below the thermistor mounting position.
- Locate the matching wire connector – it’s a white plastic 2-pin connector approximately 3/4 inch long attached to the main wire harness.
- Align the thermistor’s male connector pins with the female wire harness connector, matching the wider tab on one side of the connector housing.
- Push the connectors together until you feel and hear a definitive click – the locking tab will audibly engage.
- Tug gently on both sides of the connection point – a properly seated connector will not separate with moderate pulling force.
- Secure any excess wire length using the existing wire tie clips along the blower housing – press the wire into the plastic retaining clips spaced every 4-5 inches along the housing edge.
- Confirm the thermistor wires do not contact the blower wheel, which sits 2 inches to the left of the mounting position – rotate the blower wheel by hand one full revolution to verify clearance.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test temperature operation
- Plug the dryer’s power cord back into the 240V wall outlet and push the dryer back to within 6 inches of its final position, leaving enough room to access the rear panel if needed.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, dry bath towels inside the drum to simulate a typical load weight of approximately 8-10 pounds.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Press the power button on the control panel at the top center of the dryer door.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” setting, which is typically at the 12 o’clock position.
- Press the “Temperature” button repeatedly until “High Heat” displays on the digital screen.
- Press the “Start/Pause” button, located on the right side of the control panel, to begin the cycle.
- Allow the dryer to run for exactly 10 minutes while monitoring the drum temperature.
- After 10 minutes, press the “Start/Pause” button to stop the cycle, then open the door and carefully touch the towels – they should feel warm to hot (approximately 140-160°F).
- Close the door, turn the cycle selector to “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting, and press “Start/Pause” again.
- Run this no-heat cycle for 5 minutes, then stop and check the towels – they should feel room temperature or only slightly warm from tumbling friction.
- Turn the cycle selector to “Delicate” or “Low Heat” setting and run for 8 minutes.
- Stop the cycle and check the towels again – they should feel moderately warm (approximately 110-130°F), noticeably cooler than the high heat test.
- If all three temperature settings produce the expected heat levels, push the dryer fully against the wall and reconnect the vent hose using a flathead screwdriver to tighten the 4-inch diameter hose clamp.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🔩 Step 4: Compare to specifications
- Place the removed heating element on a clean, flat work surface with good lighting where you can perform measurements and tests.
- Locate the metal mounting bracket on the heating element—this rectangular frame surrounds the coil assembly and contains two threaded terminals protruding from one side.
- Measure the distance between the center points of the two threaded terminals using a ruler or calipers—the correct measurement is 2.75 inches (70mm) center-to-center.
- Examine the heating element coil itself, which loops in an oval pattern—count the number of complete loops, which should be 4 full coils for this model.
- Check the wattage rating stamped on the metal bracket near the terminal area—it should read “5500W” or “5.5KW” along with “240V”.
- Set your multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting on the lowest scale that reads up to 2000 ohms.
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the heating element—the reading should display between 10.5 and 12.5 ohms, with 11.5 ohms being optimal.
- If your multimeter shows “OL” (overload), “1”, or infinity symbol, the element has an open circuit and is defective—proceed with replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to continuity test mode (usually marked with a sound wave symbol).
- Touch one probe to either terminal and the other probe to the metal mounting bracket frame—the multimeter should NOT beep or show continuity.
- If the multimeter beeps, the element has an internal short to ground and is defective—proceed with replacement.
- Verify the thermal fuse (small white cylindrical component attached to the bracket with two wire leads) shows continuity by touching both multimeter probes to its wire terminals—it should beep, indicating the fuse is intact.
âś…
đź“‹ Step 5: If out of range, replace
- Order replacement thermistor part number 134587700 or 5303937189 (both compatible with EFME517STT).
- Verify the new thermistor matches the old one by comparing the wire connector—both should have a white 2-pin connector approximately 0.5 inches wide.
- Pull the old thermistor’s white wire connector straight back from the control board terminal located on the left side of the dryer’s rear panel, 8 inches down from the top edge.
- Locate the metal clip securing the thermistor wire along the blower housing—this clip sits 4 inches below the connector point on the control board.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the clip open and slide the wire free from the routing channel.
- Reach inside the blower housing through the access point on the right side (where you previously removed the blower wheel) and grasp the thermistor sensor at the end of the wire.
- Pull the thermistor and its grommet straight out through the 0.75-inch diameter mounting hole in the blower housing wall.
- Insert the new thermistor sensor through the same mounting hole until the rubber grommet seats flush against the housing wall—you’ll feel it snap into place.
- Route the new wire along the same path as the old wire, following the blower housing edge upward toward the control board.
- Press the wire into the metal retention clip until it clicks and holds the wire securely against the housing.
- Push the white 2-pin connector onto the control board terminal until you hear a distinct click—the connector should not pull free when tugged lightly.
- Use your multimeter set to resistance (Ω) to verify the new thermistor reads between 10,000-12,000 ohms at room temperature (68-72°F), confirming proper installation.
âś…
âś… Step 6: Install new thermistor
- Locate the new thermistor (part number 134587700 or 131719600) – it’s a small cylindrical sensor approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and 1.5 inches long with two metal prongs on one end and two wires on the other.
- Position the new thermistor into the mounting clip on the blower housing, located at the air inlet duct approximately 3 inches below the lint filter housing on the right side.
- Push the thermistor body firmly into the metal retaining clip until you hear a distinct snap – the clip will hold the sensor body snugly against the housing surface.
- Verify the thermistor sits flush against the metal surface with no air gap – the metal prongs should make direct contact with the housing for accurate temperature reading.
- Route the two attached wires (typically white or gray insulation) toward the wire harness connection point located 8 inches below the thermistor mounting position.
- Locate the matching wire connector – it’s a white plastic 2-pin connector approximately 3/4 inch long attached to the main wire harness.
- Align the thermistor’s male connector pins with the female wire harness connector, matching the wider tab on one side of the connector housing.
- Push the connectors together until you feel and hear a definitive click – the locking tab will audibly engage.
- Tug gently on both sides of the connection point – a properly seated connector will not separate with moderate pulling force.
- Secure any excess wire length using the existing wire tie clips along the blower housing – press the wire into the plastic retaining clips spaced every 4-5 inches along the housing edge.
- Confirm the thermistor wires do not contact the blower wheel, which sits 2 inches to the left of the mounting position – rotate the blower wheel by hand one full revolution to verify clearance.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test temperature operation
- Plug the dryer’s power cord back into the 240V wall outlet and push the dryer back to within 6 inches of its final position, leaving enough room to access the rear panel if needed.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, dry bath towels inside the drum to simulate a typical load weight of approximately 8-10 pounds.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Press the power button on the control panel at the top center of the dryer door.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” setting, which is typically at the 12 o’clock position.
- Press the “Temperature” button repeatedly until “High Heat” displays on the digital screen.
- Press the “Start/Pause” button, located on the right side of the control panel, to begin the cycle.
- Allow the dryer to run for exactly 10 minutes while monitoring the drum temperature.
- After 10 minutes, press the “Start/Pause” button to stop the cycle, then open the door and carefully touch the towels – they should feel warm to hot (approximately 140-160°F).
- Close the door, turn the cycle selector to “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting, and press “Start/Pause” again.
- Run this no-heat cycle for 5 minutes, then stop and check the towels – they should feel room temperature or only slightly warm from tumbling friction.
- Turn the cycle selector to “Delicate” or “Low Heat” setting and run for 8 minutes.
- Stop the cycle and check the towels again – they should feel moderately warm (approximately 110-130°F), noticeably cooler than the high heat test.
- If all three temperature settings produce the expected heat levels, push the dryer fully against the wall and reconnect the vent hose using a flathead screwdriver to tighten the 4-inch diameter hose clamp.
đź›’ Recommended Products
âś… Step 6: Install new thermistor
- Locate the new thermistor (part number 134587700 or 131719600) – it’s a small cylindrical sensor approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and 1.5 inches long with two metal prongs on one end and two wires on the other.
- Position the new thermistor into the mounting clip on the blower housing, located at the air inlet duct approximately 3 inches below the lint filter housing on the right side.
- Push the thermistor body firmly into the metal retaining clip until you hear a distinct snap – the clip will hold the sensor body snugly against the housing surface.
- Verify the thermistor sits flush against the metal surface with no air gap – the metal prongs should make direct contact with the housing for accurate temperature reading.
- Route the two attached wires (typically white or gray insulation) toward the wire harness connection point located 8 inches below the thermistor mounting position.
- Locate the matching wire connector – it’s a white plastic 2-pin connector approximately 3/4 inch long attached to the main wire harness.
- Align the thermistor’s male connector pins with the female wire harness connector, matching the wider tab on one side of the connector housing.
- Push the connectors together until you feel and hear a definitive click – the locking tab will audibly engage.
- Tug gently on both sides of the connection point – a properly seated connector will not separate with moderate pulling force.
- Secure any excess wire length using the existing wire tie clips along the blower housing – press the wire into the plastic retaining clips spaced every 4-5 inches along the housing edge.
- Confirm the thermistor wires do not contact the blower wheel, which sits 2 inches to the left of the mounting position – rotate the blower wheel by hand one full revolution to verify clearance.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test temperature operation
- Plug the dryer’s power cord back into the 240V wall outlet and push the dryer back to within 6 inches of its final position, leaving enough room to access the rear panel if needed.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, dry bath towels inside the drum to simulate a typical load weight of approximately 8-10 pounds.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Press the power button on the control panel at the top center of the dryer door.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” setting, which is typically at the 12 o’clock position.
- Press the “Temperature” button repeatedly until “High Heat” displays on the digital screen.
- Press the “Start/Pause” button, located on the right side of the control panel, to begin the cycle.
- Allow the dryer to run for exactly 10 minutes while monitoring the drum temperature.
- After 10 minutes, press the “Start/Pause” button to stop the cycle, then open the door and carefully touch the towels – they should feel warm to hot (approximately 140-160°F).
- Close the door, turn the cycle selector to “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting, and press “Start/Pause” again.
- Run this no-heat cycle for 5 minutes, then stop and check the towels – they should feel room temperature or only slightly warm from tumbling friction.
- Turn the cycle selector to “Delicate” or “Low Heat” setting and run for 8 minutes.
- Stop the cycle and check the towels again – they should feel moderately warm (approximately 110-130°F), noticeably cooler than the high heat test.
- If all three temperature settings produce the expected heat levels, push the dryer fully against the wall and reconnect the vent hose using a flathead screwdriver to tighten the 4-inch diameter hose clamp.
đź›’ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- 8577274 Dryer Thermistor 3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse by Blutoget – Compatible for Whirlpool, ken-more,May-tag dryers-Replace partnumber 8577274, 3390292, 3406294, 3976615, 772546, AP3919451, AP601351
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