Electrolux EIDW1805KS – Circulation pump leaking Repair Guide

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Model: Electrolux EIDW1805KS
Brand: Electrolux
Model Number: EIDW1805KS

🔍 Problem Description

Replace pump seals; check housing for cracks; tighten connections

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Circulation pump seals
  • Pump housing

    • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔧 Step 1: Inspect circulation pump for leaks

      1. Turn off power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker, then unplug the unit from the wall outlet located behind the dishwasher.
      2. Turn off the water supply valve under the sink by rotating it clockwise until it stops.
      3. Open the dishwasher door and remove all dish racks by lifting them straight up and out.
      4. Remove the lower spray arm by grasping it firmly and turning counterclockwise 1/4 turn, then lifting upward.
      5. Locate the circular filter assembly in the center of the tub floor and twist it counterclockwise to unlock, then lift out the two-piece filter system.
      6. Remove the 3 Torx T20 screws securing the pump cover plate (a triangular gray plastic piece approximately 8 inches wide at the base).
      7. Lift the pump cover straight up to expose the circulation pump assembly directly below.
      8. Use a flashlight to examine the black circular pump housing, which measures approximately 5 inches in diameter and sits at the center bottom of the tub.
      9. Look for water droplets, moisture trails, or white mineral deposits on the pump body, particularly around the rubber seal where the pump motor connects to the housing.
      10. Check the inlet port on the left side of the pump (where water enters) for cracks or wetness around the connection point.
      11. Inspect the outlet port on the right side where a ribbed hose connects—look for water stains or loose clamp connections.
      12. Run your finger along the bottom seam of the pump housing where the motor shaft enters—wetness here indicates a failed shaft seal (part number 154844301).
      13. Examine the sump area surrounding the pump for standing water that isn’t draining, which indicates pump seal failure rather than external connection leaks.
      14. A healthy pump will be completely dry with no visible moisture, mineral buildup, or water pooling underneath.

      🛠️ Step 2: Check pump seals for wear or damage

      1. Locate the drain pump assembly at the bottom center of the dishwasher tub, directly beneath the spray arm tower.
      2. Identify the two seals requiring inspection: the inlet seal (black rubber gasket where water enters from the sump) and the outlet seal (located where the drain hose connects to the pump body).
      3. Examine the inlet seal by running your index finger around the entire circumference where it contacts the pump housing – you’re feeling for cracks, brittleness, or compressed flat sections wider than 2mm.
      4. Look for water residue, white mineral deposits, or discoloration around the seal edges, indicating past leakage.
      5. Press the seal material gently with your thumbnail – a healthy seal will indent slightly then spring back; a worn seal will remain compressed or feel hard like plastic.
      6. Check the outlet seal where the ribbed drain hose connects to the pump discharge port (right side of pump assembly, approximately 3 inches from pump motor).
      7. Wiggle the drain hose connection while observing the seal – movement greater than 3mm indicates the seal has lost compression fit.
      8. Inspect for visible cracks in the seal material, particularly at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions where stress concentrates.
      9. Run your finger inside the drain hose connection opening to feel for torn rubber pieces or missing seal sections.
      10. If either seal shows cracks, permanent compression, tears, or discoloration, it requires replacement with part number 140000443022 (inlet seal) or 140000443015 (outlet seal).
      11. Successful seals appear uniformly black, feel pliable with consistent thickness around the entire circumference, show no gaps between seal and housing, and display no water staining on adjacent surfaces.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Inspect pump housing for cracks

      1. Position yourself at the front of the dishwasher with the pump assembly now accessible after removing the spray arm assembly and filter system from previous steps.
      2. Locate the pump housing—a gray cylindrical component approximately 5 inches in diameter sitting at the lowest point of the dishwasher tub, centered 12 inches from the front edge.
      3. Wipe down the entire exterior surface of the pump housing using a clean cloth to remove any standing water, food debris, or mineral deposits that could obscure cracks.
      4. Start your visual inspection at the top rim where the pump housing meets the sump basin, running your index finger along the entire circular seam while looking for hairline cracks or separation.
      5. Examine the front face of the pump housing where the drain pump motor connects—look specifically for stress cracks radiating outward from the 4 mounting bolt holes (positioned at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions).
      6. Check the inlet port opening (approximately 2 inches in diameter at the top center) for cracks extending from the edge, which appear as dark lines in the gray plastic.
      7. Inspect the outlet port on the right side of the housing (1.5-inch diameter connection point) for cracks around the perimeter where the discharge hose attaches.
      8. Run your fingernail along any suspected crack lines—actual cracks will catch your nail while surface scratches will not.
      9. Use a bright LED flashlight held at a 45-degree angle to the housing surface to cast shadows that make hairline cracks more visible.
      10. Look for water staining, white mineral deposits, or discoloration on the bottom of the tub directly below the pump housing, which indicates water leaking through cracks.
      11. If you find any cracks longer than 0.25 inches or any cracks that penetrate through the housing wall, the pump housing requires replacement (part number 154844301).

      🔩 Step 4: Tighten all pump connections

      1. Locate the drain pump at the bottom center of the dishwasher, approximately 8 inches back from the front edge and centered between the left and right sides.
      2. Identify three connection points on the pump assembly: the inlet hose (coming from the tub, positioned on top), the drain hose (exiting toward the back-right), and the recirculation hose (connecting to the left side).
      3. Start with the inlet hose connection on top of the pump – you’ll see a spring clamp with two tabs holding a ribbed rubber hose onto a white plastic fitting.
      4. Use slip-joint pliers to squeeze the spring clamp tabs together and slide the clamp 1 inch away from the pump fitting along the hose.
      5. Push the hose firmly onto the pump inlet fitting until it bottoms out – you should feel resistance when the hose reaches the internal ridge inside the fitting.
      6. Slide the spring clamp back to within 1/4 inch of the pump body, releasing the pliers to lock it in place over the ribbed section of the hose.
      7. Move to the drain hose connection on the back-right of the pump – locate the worm-gear clamp (adjustable screw-type clamp) securing a corrugated black hose.
      8. Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or flathead screwdriver to turn the clamp screw clockwise 3-4 full rotations until the hose compresses slightly against the pump outlet.
      9. Tighten until you meet firm resistance – the clamp should indent the hose surface by approximately 1/16 inch without crushing it.
      10. Check the recirculation hose on the left side – this connection typically uses another spring clamp identical to step 3.
      11. Repeat the clamping process from steps 4-6 for this final connection.
      12. Tug each hose away from the pump with 10-15 pounds of force – none should pull free or slide more than 1/8 inch.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Replace pump seals or housing if damaged

      1. Place the drain pump assembly on a clean work surface with the motor facing up.
      2. Locate the white plastic volute housing (the spiral-shaped chamber) connected to the motor body with 3 Phillips-head screws spaced evenly around the perimeter.
      3. Remove all 3 screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise, and set them aside.
      4. Pull the volute housing straight away from the motor body—it will separate after breaking the seal with moderate twisting motion.
      5. Identify the black rubber seal seated in the circular groove on the motor side—this is a 2-inch diameter O-ring (part number 154860101).
      6. Pry out the old seal using a flat-head screwdriver, inserting it under the seal edge at any point along the circumference.
      7. Wipe the groove clean with a lint-free cloth, removing all debris and old lubricant residue.
      8. Apply a thin coating of food-grade silicone grease around the entire new O-ring.
      9. Press the new seal into the groove, working around the circumference until it sits flush and even—no portion should protrude above the groove edge.
      10. Align the volute housing back onto the motor, matching the 3 screw holes.
      11. Insert all 3 screws finger-tight, then tighten in a star pattern to prevent uneven compression, turning each 2-3 rotations before moving to the next.
      12. If the volute housing has cracks longer than ÂĽ inch or the impeller chamber shows wear grooves, replace the complete assembly (part number 154844301).
      13. Transfer the motor from your old housing by removing the 4 mounting screws at the motor flange using a 5/16-inch nut driver.
      14. Mount the motor onto the new housing, aligning the shaft through the center opening, and secure with the 4 screws tightened in an X-pattern.
      15. The impeller should spin freely with no rubbing—rotate it by hand to verify smooth rotation through 10 complete turns.

      đź›’ Recommended Products

      Here are the recommended products for this repair: