Samsung DW80R9950US (Linear Wash) – LC error code (leak) Repair Guide

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Model: Samsung DW80R9950US (Linear Wash)
Brand: Samsung
Model Number: DW80R9950US

🔍 Problem Description

Inspect all hoses and connections; check door seal; verify proper installation

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Door seal
  • Cleaning tools

    • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔧 Step 1: Inspect all water hoses and connections

      1. Turn off the dishwasher circuit breaker at your electrical panel.
      2. Locate the water shutoff valve under your kitchen sink, typically mounted to the wall or cabinet back within 24 inches of the sink drain, and turn it clockwise until it stops.
      3. Open the dishwasher door and remove all dish racks by lifting them straight up and out.
      4. Place a large towel on the floor in front of the dishwasher to catch any water spillage.
      5. Unscrew the two T20 Torx screws securing the lower kickplate panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher, one located 4 inches from each side edge.
      6. Pull the kickplate panel forward and set it aside.
      7. Lie on your back with a flashlight and identify the braided stainless steel water supply hose connecting to the inlet valve—located at the front left corner, approximately 8 inches from the left edge.
      8. Run your hand along the entire length of the water supply hose from the shutoff valve to the inlet valve connection point, feeling for any soft spots, cracks, or moisture.
      9. Visually inspect the rubber washer inside the hose coupling at the inlet valve connection—it should appear black, flexible, and without cracks or compression marks.
      10. Check the compression nut at the inlet valve connection by attempting to hand-tighten it clockwise—if it rotates more than 1/8 turn, tighten it with a 15mm wrench until snug (finger-tight plus 1/4 turn).
      11. Inspect the drain hose (corrugated gray plastic, 1-inch diameter) where it connects to the drain pump at the front right corner—the hose clamp should be positioned squarely on the ribbed connection point without gaps.
      12. Squeeze the drain hose along its entire visible length to detect any soft deteriorated areas or splits in the corrugated ridges.
      13. Success indicators: hoses feel firm throughout, no moisture present, all connections are tight without play, rubber washers show no visible damage.

      🛠️ Step 2: Check door seal for damage or gaps

      1. Open the dishwasher door fully until it rests in the horizontal position at approximately 90 degrees from the tub.
      2. Locate the door gasket, which is a gray rubber seal that runs continuously around the entire perimeter of the door panel opening, starting at the bottom left corner.
      3. Begin your inspection at the bottom left corner where the seal meets the hinge side, running your index finger along the inner edge of the gasket while applying light pressure (approximately 1-2 pounds of force) to compress it slightly.
      4. Move clockwise around the entire perimeter, checking for these specific defects:
      5. Pay particular attention to the four corner areas (each approximately 3 inches from the corner joint) where stress concentrations cause the most frequent failures.
      6. Check the bottom horizontal section spanning the full width of the door (approximately 24 inches) for food debris, grease buildup, or mineral deposits that create gaps preventing proper sealing.
      7. Close the door and look for light leaking through from inside the tub around the perimeter, which indicates gaps in the seal contact.
      8. Run your hand along the outside of the closed door perimeter, feeling for moisture or air movement, which confirms seal failure at that location.
      9. If you find any cracks longer than 1/4 inch, tears, hardened sections longer than 2 inches, or gaps exceeding 1/8 inch, the door seal (part number DD97-00196A) requires replacement before proceeding with further diagnostics.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Verify dishwasher is properly installed and level

      1. Open the dishwasher door fully to 90 degrees and locate the four leveling legs—two at the front corners and two at the rear corners of the unit base.
      2. Place a 24-inch spirit level horizontally across the top edges of the dishwasher’s side walls, front to back, to check the side-to-side level.
      3. Read the bubble position—the dishwasher is level when the bubble sits between the two center lines on the spirit level.
      4. If unlevel side-to-side, access the front leveling legs by removing the kick plate at the bottom front of the dishwasher (pull the bottom edge outward and lift up to release the clips).
      5. Use a 3/8-inch wrench or adjustable pliers to turn the front leveling legs clockwise to raise or counterclockwise to lower each side until level is achieved.
      6. Rotate the spirit level 90 degrees to check front-to-back level across the dishwasher opening, resting it on the door sill.
      7. For rear leg adjustment, access the legs from the front by reaching underneath with a 3/8-inch box wrench—turn clockwise to raise the rear.
      8. Verify the final height positions the top of the dishwasher flush with the underside of your countertop, with a maximum gap of 1/8 inch.
      9. Check that all four mounting brackets are secured to the underside of the countertop—two brackets located at the top front corners, approximately 2 inches from each side edge.
      10. Tighten the mounting screws using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, applying firm pressure until the dishwasher cannot shift forward or sideways when pulled.
      11. Close the dishwasher door and verify it latches smoothly without binding—the door should stay in position when opened to 45 degrees without falling open or closed on its own.
      12. Reinstall the kick plate by inserting the top edge first, then pressing the bottom until the retention clips snap into place.

      🔩 Step 4: Check base pan for water

      1. Open the dishwasher door completely until it rests horizontally at approximately 90 degrees from the cabinet face.
      2. Remove the lower dish rack by lifting it straight up and out of the dishwasher, setting it aside on a clean surface.
      3. Locate the dishwasher’s stainless steel tub bottom – this is the flat surface at the base where dishes normally sit.
      4. Look toward the front-center of the tub bottom and identify the circular white or gray cover disk (approximately 4 inches in diameter) – this covers the sump area.
      5. Grasp the sump cover and rotate it counterclockwise 1/4 turn (90 degrees) until it releases from the locking tabs.
      6. Lift the sump cover straight up and remove the cylindrical filter assembly beneath it by pulling upward.
      7. Set both components aside and look down into the sump cavity – you should see the impeller housing below.
      8. Get on your hands and knees in front of the dishwasher and look underneath the opened door at the base of the unit.
      9. Locate the narrow horizontal kickplate panel at the very bottom front of the dishwasher, spanning the entire width.
      10. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the notch at the bottom-left corner of the kickplate and pry gently to release the spring clips.
      11. Pull the kickplate forward and down to remove it completely, revealing the base pan area.
      12. Use a flashlight to illuminate the base pan – this is the shallow plastic tray sitting directly under the dishwasher tub.
      13. Look for any standing water, moisture, or water stains in the base pan – a completely dry pan indicates no leak.
      14. If water is present, use paper towels or a turkey baster to remove and measure the approximate volume – more than 2 cups indicates an active leak requiring further diagnosis.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Repair leaks and replace door seal if needed

      1. Run the dishwasher on a rinse cycle and observe water accumulation at the front base, sides, and door bottom edges with a flashlight while the unit is running.
      2. Open the door mid-cycle and inspect the gray rubber door gasket running along the entire tub perimeter for visible cracks, tears, or sections that appear flattened (less than 1/4 inch thick when compressed).
      3. Check for water droplets forming at the corners where the gasket meets itself, approximately 2 inches from each top corner.
      4. Open the door fully and locate the continuous door gasket seated in a channel around the entire tub opening perimeter.
      5. Starting at the top right corner, grip the gasket firmly and pull outward with steady pressure to release it from the retention channel.
      6. Work your way around the entire perimeter, pulling the gasket free in 6-inch sections until completely removed.
      7. Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth to wipe out the channel, removing any debris, old adhesive, or calcium deposits.
      8. Begin at the top center of the tub opening with the new gasket, identifying the thicker center section that seats at the top.
      9. Press the gasket lip into the channel using your thumbs, applying firm downward pressure until you feel it seat completely (approximately 1/4 inch deep into the channel).
      10. Work left and right simultaneously in 4-inch sections, ensuring the gasket remains centered in the channel without twisting.
      11. At each corner, compress the gasket into the channel firmly, creating a smooth bend without gaps or overlapping material.
      12. When reaching the bottom corners, ensure the gasket extends 1/2 inch past each corner to create proper water seal.
      13. Close the door and press around the entire perimeter from outside, compressing the gasket against the tub edge to verify proper seating.
      14. Run a test cycle and inspect for leaks during the first 10 minutes of operation.

      đź›’ Recommended Products

      Here are the recommended products for this repair: