Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load) – Transmission issues Repair Guide

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🔩 Transmission issues Repair Guide for Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load)

💡 Don’t panic! Transmission issues on your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load) is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts can fix themselves. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the repair process step by step.

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Transmission assembly
  • Transmission oil
  • Gearcase

    • ⚠️ Safety First

    Before you begin, always:

    • Unplug the washing machine from power
    • Turn off water supply valves
    • Allow the machine to cool down if it was recently running
    • Have a clean, well-lit workspace

      • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

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      🔧 Step 1: Listen for grinding

      1. Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet at the wall to prevent any cycle from starting during your diagnostic work.
      2. Open the washer lid fully and remove all clothing, laundry, and items from the drum interior.
      3. Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet.
      4. Set the cycle selector knob to the “Normal” wash cycle by rotating the knob clockwise until it points to the Normal setting (located at approximately the 12 o’clock position on the control panel).
      5. Press the “Start” button once to begin the cycle.
      6. Stand directly in front of the open washer lid with your head positioned approximately 12-18 inches above the drum opening.
      7. Listen during the first 30 seconds as the washer begins to fill with water – note any grinding, scraping, or metal-on-metal sounds coming from below the drum.
      8. Allow the washer to advance to the agitation phase (approximately 2-3 minutes after starting) – you’ll hear the water stop filling and the agitator will begin moving back and forth.
      9. Listen for grinding sounds during agitation that occur in rhythm with the agitator movement – these sounds originate from the agitator dogs (part number 285770) or the drive coupling beneath the machine.
      10. Press and hold the “Start” button for 3 seconds to pause the cycle, then advance the timer knob clockwise to the “Spin” cycle position.
      11. Press “Start” again and listen for grinding during the spin cycle – grinding that increases in pitch as the drum accelerates indicates a problem with the clutch assembly (part number W10721967) or transmission.
      12. Turn the cycle selector knob counterclockwise to the “Off” position and unplug the washer.
      13. Document which cycle phase produced grinding sounds: fill only, agitation only, spin only, or multiple phases – this determines which components require inspection in subsequent steps.
    • Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet at the wall to prevent any cycle from starting during your diagnostic work.
    • Open the washer lid fully and remove all clothing, laundry, and items from the drum interior.
    • Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet.
    • Set the cycle selector knob to the “Normal” wash cycle by rotating the knob clockwise until it points to the Normal setting (located at approximately the 12 o’clock position on the control panel).
    • Press the “Start” button once to begin the cycle.
    • Stand directly in front of the open washer lid with your head positioned approximately 12-18 inches above the drum opening.
    • Listen during the first 30 seconds as the washer begins to fill with water – note any grinding, scraping, or metal-on-metal sounds coming from below the drum.
    • Allow the washer to advance to the agitation phase (approximately 2-3 minutes after starting) – you’ll hear the water stop filling and the agitator will begin moving back and forth.
    • Listen for grinding sounds during agitation that occur in rhythm with the agitator movement – these sounds originate from the agitator dogs (part number 285770) or the drive coupling beneath the machine.
    • Press and hold the “Start” button for 3 seconds to pause the cycle, then advance the timer knob clockwise to the “Spin” cycle position.
    • Press “Start” again and listen for grinding during the spin cycle – grinding that increases in pitch as the drum accelerates indicates a problem with the clutch assembly (part number W10721967) or transmission.
    • Turn the cycle selector knob counterclockwise to the “Off” position and unplug the washer.
    • Document which cycle phase produced grinding sounds: fill only, agitation only, spin only, or multiple phases – this determines which components require inspection in subsequent steps.

      • 🛠️ Step 2: Check splines and gears for wear

      1. Locate the drive block assembly at the bottom center of the agitator shaft—this is the white or clear plastic component with internal teeth (splines) that connects the agitator to the drive system.
      2. Remove the drive block by grasping it firmly and pulling straight upward with both hands; it should slide off the shaft with 5-10 pounds of force.
      3. Hold the drive block under bright light and examine the internal splines (the star-shaped teeth inside the center hole).
      4. Look for these specific wear indicators:
      5. Insert your index finger into the center hole and feel for rough edges, burrs, or missing material on any of the 7 internal splines.
      6. Inspect the metal drive shaft splines (located on the transmission shaft inside the tub) by looking down into the center of the washer basket.
      7. Use a flashlight to examine the metal splines for:
      8. Run your finger along the metal splines to detect roughness, sharp edges, or inconsistent heights between teeth.
      9. If either the plastic drive block splines show rounding/cracking OR the metal shaft splines show wear, replace the drive block (part number 285753A or 80040).
      10. Verify a good drive block has sharp, well-defined spline edges with no cracks and uniform material thickness throughout.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Inspect transmission condition

      1. Locate the transmission assembly directly beneath the wash basket – it’s a gray or white cylindrical housing approximately 8 inches in diameter at the center bottom of the tub.
      2. Shine a flashlight into the basket from the top and look down at the agitator dogs (white plastic cams) visible through the openings in the agitator base – count 3 evenly spaced dogs around the circumference.
      3. Rotate the inner wash basket clockwise with your hand while observing the transmission input shaft (the metal shaft the basket sits on) – it should turn smoothly without grinding sounds or catching.
      4. Check for transmission oil leaks by running your fingers around the bottom of the transmission housing where it meets the outer tub – look for dark brown or black oil residue or pooling.
      5. Examine the transmission drive bell (the white plastic coupling on top of the transmission shaft, approximately 3 inches in diameter) for cracks, stripped splines, or worn teeth by inspecting each of the 16 internal splines.
      6. Grasp the wash basket with both hands and attempt to lift it straight up while applying 10-15 pounds of upward force – excessive vertical play (more than 1/8 inch movement) indicates worn transmission bearings.
      7. Rock the basket side-to-side – movement exceeding 1/4 inch in any direction signals bearing failure inside the transmission housing.
      8. Look for metal shavings or debris in the bottom of the outer tub around the transmission base – shiny metal particles indicate internal gear wear.
      9. Listen while manually rotating the basket counterclockwise – clicking, popping, or grinding noises mean internal transmission damage requiring replacement of the entire transmission assembly (part number W10721967).
      10. Verify the agitator shaft moves independently from the basket by holding the basket stationary and rotating the agitator – it should turn freely in both directions with slight resistance from the agitator dogs.

      🔩 Step 4: Replace transmission if needed

      1. Locate the transmission assembly directly beneath the wash basket – it’s the silver/gray cylindrical unit approximately 8 inches in diameter at the center bottom of the tub.
      2. Using a 1/2-inch socket wrench, remove the single bolt securing the agitator coupling at the top of the transmission shaft, turning counterclockwise.
      3. Lift the agitator coupling straight up and set aside.
      4. Disconnect the motor-to-transmission drive belt by pushing the motor mount forward approximately 1 inch to create slack, then slide the black rubber belt off both pulleys.
      5. Remove the four 7/16-inch hex head bolts securing the transmission mounting bracket to the base frame – these are located at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions around the transmission base.
      6. Disconnect the clutch linkage rod from the transmission shift arm on the right side by removing the small E-clip with needle-nose pliers.
      7. Grasp the transmission assembly with both hands and lift straight up approximately 3 inches until the splined drive shaft clears the mounting bracket opening.
      8. Tilt the transmission forward 30 degrees and pull toward the front of the machine to fully remove it from the cabinet.
      9. Position the new transmission (part number W10396887) into the same location, aligning the splined shaft with the center mounting bracket hole.
      10. Lower the transmission onto the mounting bracket until the four bolt holes align perfectly with the base frame.
      11. Thread in the four 7/16-inch mounting bolts hand-tight, then torque to 18-20 ft-lbs in a crisscross pattern using a torque wrench.
      12. Reconnect the clutch linkage rod to the shift arm and secure with the E-clip until it snaps into the groove.
      13. Route the drive belt around both the motor pulley and transmission pulley, then release motor tension to apply proper belt tension.
      14. Replace the agitator coupling onto the drive shaft and secure with the 1/2-inch bolt, torquing to 25 ft-lbs.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Test all wash cycles

      1. Close the washer lid completely until you hear it click into the locked position.
      2. Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal” position (located at the 12 o’clock position on the dial).
      3. Pull the cycle selector knob outward approximately 1/4 inch to start the cycle, or press the “Start” button once if your model has an electronic control panel.
      4. Listen for the water inlet valves to open within 5-10 seconds—you’ll hear a humming sound and water flowing into the drum.
      5. Watch through the lid (if transparent) or lift the lid briefly to verify water is filling to the correct level, approximately 8-12 inches from the bottom of the drum for a normal load setting.
      6. Allow the Normal cycle to run for 3 minutes, listening for the agitator to begin its back-and-forth motion with a steady rhythmic sound.
      7. Push the cycle selector knob inward or press “Pause” to stop the cycle.
      8. Turn the dial clockwise to the “Delicate” position (typically at the 3 o’clock position).
      9. Pull the knob out or press “Start” and verify the agitator moves with shorter, gentler strokes compared to the Normal cycle.
      10. Run the Delicate cycle for 2 minutes, then pause.
      11. Rotate the dial to the “Heavy Duty” position (typically at the 10 o’clock position) and start the cycle.
      12. Confirm the agitator operates with more aggressive, longer strokes and that water level increases to approximately 14-16 inches from the drum bottom.
      13. Let the Heavy Duty cycle run for 2 minutes.
      14. Turn the dial to the “Spin Only” position (typically at the 6 o’clock position) and start.
      15. Observe the drum accelerating to full spin speed within 30-45 seconds—the washer should vibrate minimally and maintain steady operation without walking across the floor.
      16. Allow the spin cycle to complete its full 5-8 minute duration.

      đź’ˇ Pro Tips

      Take photos as you disassemble components – they’ll be invaluable when putting everything back together. If you encounter resistance or something doesn’t seem right, stop and reassess rather than forcing it.

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